Milan Fashion Week is well underway, kicking off with an unruly runway show by James Long‘s ICEBERG. The 49-year-old label always keeps heritage at the fore, debuting an animalistic showcase packed with fashion-hungry viewers. ICEBERG is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2024, anticipating the milestone with power for Spring/Summer 2024.
ICEBERG shed its rebellious skin across a snakeskin-heavy collection packed with confidence, made to be worn from dusk til dawn. The brand was reborn through elevated House staples grounded in heritage, seeing glossy leather reign supreme across the runway. The daring offering began with a dark-eyed model wearing an embossed leather co-ord with haltered zippers and pierced bottoms, while others walked in asymmetrical closures and refined shoulder harnesses. Biker-inspired ensembles donned pierced netting and metallic hardware, moving onto tinted snakeskin jackets with an oversized identity.
The collection revealed pockets of skin throughout, oozing with unmatched sex appeal. Khaki uniforms arrived with white patchwork detailing and utilitarian accents, seeing delicate grey tones come alive on modern trench coats, slitted trousers, and dual-strapped underwear. ICEBERG’s SS24 collection was free in nature, reviving essential archival pieces for contemporary rebels.
Speaking exclusively to Hypebeast backstage, James Long says:
“I always start with something related to the history of ICEBERG, there was a type of safari snake images that I really started with. I translated the leather into poplin and used lots of fake printed cottons and crocodiles to give that exotic feeling. We did loads of knitwear this season that had parachute shapes and utilitarian details that is very in your face.
A lot of the pieces from my SS24 collection are actually from the archive, but I’ve done them in a very modern way. The patchwork pockets are where the brand started, it’s about honoring the brand while also making it new.
I’ve launched my first perfume for ICEBERG today and have got some more scents and a golf collection coming as well throughout the rest of the year.”