Editors' Pick: Best SS24 Collections From Copenhagen Fashion Week

From Latimmier’s shredded office uniforms to Henrik Vibskov’s out of the box thinking, designers strayed from tradition this season.

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Copenhagen Fashion Week returned for the Spring/Summer 2024 season, showcasing an expansive range of brands from established labels, to emerging designers.

Copenhagen’s much-mythologized golden skies may not have beamed out throughout the duration of CPHFW, but that did nothing to dampen spirits – or the sheer amount of talent on display. Last week’s main event proved that the future of Scandi fashion looks bright, with several of the world’s most exciting, upcoming designers showcasing daring and discerning collections.

The Scandinavian fashion week continues to champion home-grown talent, exploring utilitarian silhouettes, classic tailoring, vibrant styling and thinking outside the box. Brands continued to push boundaries, with collections reflecting individualism and eccentricity through both performative and functional pieces.

Kicking off the week was A. Roege Hove, Latimmier and Saks Potts with their physical shows. Ganni once again closes out the week with its staple show, putting its mark on Danish fashion. Hypebeast was on the ground at CPHFW to pinpoint some of the best collections shown during the SS24 season. Take a look below.

Latimmier

Finnish designer Ervin Latimmier staged his third runway as an emerging talent at Copenhagen Fashion Week. This SS24 season saw the designer inspired by his drag queen personality, Anna Conda, bringing a unique flair to the collection. Deconstructing conventional silhouettes and redefining the idea of traditional menswear, the collection offers playful silhouettes to otherwise utilitarian styles.

The collection flirts with the ideals of hard work, power and labor through the male guise, bringing forward motifs that match the brand’s tagline “For the Performance of Masculinities.” The designer’s drag alter ego informs the individualism behind the collection, bringing together deconstructed garments amongst the shirting, provocative yet subtle cutouts to reveal lingerie detailing that explore the “sartorial choices that [men make] to express status and power, and how none of that’s really real.”

Sunflower

Danish brand Sunflower returned to the Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24 collection runway with a bang, continuing to refresh menswear classics with slick silhouettes and on-point details. Joined by the titular ’80s Danish band Laid Back, who played out their hit song “Sunshine Reggae” as the rain subsided just in time for the spectacle, Sunflower remastered menswear silhouettes in the label’s signature style. Throughout the collection, the label updated some of its signature themes, with leather vests, denim and ’80s styled blazers and suiting.

This season saw Sunflower articulate the brand’s motifs in a broad menswear range. The collection featured motor vests combined with chore jackets, as well as head to toe denims to mesh button downs paired with oversized trousers. The brand landed the late ’70s and ’80s casual rocker aesthetic which never took itself too seriously, the refreshing showcase duly received a warm reception from attendees.

Henrik Vibskov

Henrik Vibskov‘s SS24 collection takes a physical approach to the box concept. Taking inspiration from the actual shape, the human mind’s categorical box, the label unboxes and repackages the ideals, thus creating the inspiration behind this season’s garments. Linear motifs are shared throughout the collection, stylistically reinterpreted to create conventional and non-conventional boundaries.

Spontaneous ideals are formed by shirts and dresses which can be worn frontward or backward, while contrasting silhouettes like boxed-shape suitings are featured throughout the collection. Pops of color from the vivid orange and indigo blue bring life to the collection that reinvigorates typical menswear silhouettes with plaid patterns, abstract graphics, symmetrical lines and geometric shapes.

mfpen

 

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mfpen may not have shown off its SS24 collection on the runway (despite rumours swirling that the brand will be showing next season) but the Danish menswear imprint’s latest collection will be sure to garner more attention from a global audience.

Featuring a new focus on knitwear that sees beautiful sweaters and striped jerseys come to the fore, the collection also sees mfpen hone its focus on punk-y, off-kilter shirting and suiting yet again. A collaborative loafer collection with Vinny’s is also a nice touch, bringing a slightly smarter vibe to compliment Mfpen’s deconstructed shirts, ties and suits.

STAMM

Elisabet Stamm‘s eponymous label broke new ground at Copenhagen Fashion Week, holding her first independent runway show following her union with Zalando. STAMM‘s “Don’t Stop, We’re Dreaming” offering was a personal recollection of her childhood breakthroughs, channeling her passion for horseback riding into a street-ready collection.

The designer’s youthful hobby was communicated across blurred athletic images that picture her jumping over obstacles, while her father’s red truck is distorted across unhinged leather outerwear. Oversized athletic uniforms were revisited through a streetwear lens, paired with embellished chains and dyed adidas socks. STAMM’s sustainable ethos continue to stand strong, coordinating with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s eco-friendly regulations.

OpéraSPORT

Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter’s OpéraSPORT Spring/Summer 2024 runway was a delicate homage to Mother Earth, seeing every garment blossom under Copenhagen’s rainy skies. The collection was romantic and sentimental, asking viewers to embrace our planet’s seasonal changes while exploring the body’s raw form.

OpéraSPORT SS24 was packed with eclectic textiles and blooming florals, seeing motherly dresses boast petite chest knots and uneven ruffled edges. The brand’s rebellious personality came alive through animalistic patterns and slick leather ensembles, counteracted by asymmetrical paintings and crinkled dresses destined for midnight outings.

Rolf Ekroth

Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth made his runway debut in the Danish capital this season, delivering a striking co-ed showcase with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s New Talent program. Rolf Ekroth’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection recalled the act of missing the past by depicting an intimate family portrait through the 1930s, ’70s, ’90s, and ’00s.

Antiquated floral prints taken from your grandmother’s sofa were painted onto layered denim co-ords in flourishing pink and green hues. Scandinavian farmwear was depicted across pale yellow nylon suiting, boasting a retro feel with knotted neck ornamentation and golden heirloom accessories. Ekroth’s utilitarian identity was reflected in gender-bending anoraks and knitted headgear, dominated by the designer’s jarring rebellious motifs. Camper jackets received inherited pinned decor, while quilted skirts, jumbo patchwork garments, and beaded cardigans oozed with family nostalgia.

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