Louis Gabriel Nouchi is a fiend for a classic drama — and each season, his runways reflect just that. For Spring 2023, the designer sought inspiration from Pierre Choderlos de Laclos’ Dangerous Liaisons and, for Fall 2023, he called on Bret Easton Ellis’ American Psycho. Now, for Spring 2024, the visionary has cited his sartorial sources in Christopher Isherwood’s 1964 novel, A Single Man.
The collection, operating under the same moniker, stylistically articulated the book’s themes of love, loss, acceptance and grief through a range of emotionally-charged garments — without ever relying too strictly on its origin script.
Opening Nouchi’s SS24 show inside Paris’ Palais de Tokyo was a romantic brown leather coat, tightly wrapped to leave just a glimpse of the black tie and white-collared shirt layered underneath it. Brown suiting, oversized and fitted, followed in line, alongside two crinkled tops, frozen in place. Pants, in an identical hue, sat low on the waist, revealing a rare men’s bodysuit tucked neatly beneath them.
Out of the dark brown emerged the collection’s daring palette, beginning with a happy-go-lucky yellow that appeared across several formalwear silhouettes, including suit jackets, trousers and ties. A deep blue followed closely behind, commanding a flowy robe, a shirt, baggy pants and a tie. Here, eveningwear felt relaxed. Neutral tones still claimed prominence, however, on asymmetrical tops, shiny leather separates and a range of athleisure silhouettes.
At the tail end, knit vests draped over signature suiting layers, and blazers acquainted themselves with shorts, across a slew of strictly black and white ensembles. After sleeveless blazers, double-breasted coats and wavy trousers, all in bright white, disappeared from the runway, the show concluded with a button-down shirt and a billowing trench coat, both made with a thick, silver textile donning purposeful folds and wrinkles all over.
In all, the collection showcased Nouchi’s ability to effectively communicate emotions through fashion design, a skill that consistently manifests through his love for age-old stories.
Flick through Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week Men’s, check out Walter Van Beirendonck’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection.