Across men’s and womenswear is a sense of refinement: Fiorucci as you know it, but all grown up. Pre-Fall 2023 is the perfect blend of heritage and hereafter; while The Angels, Elio Fiorucci to Andy Warhol-isms, and Studio 54 make their presence known in abundance, it’s not as overt as before.
Take the archive-derived lips T-shirt, which sees a dot-pixel graphic printed onto a white tee alongside classic Fiorucci branding, but centered within a boxier, contemporary cut. Something not seen in the lookbook, but revealed at today’s preview of the collection, is a dress and a denim shirt that sees an image of a model wearing a Fiorucci outfit, captured at the brand’s 15th-anniversary party at Studio 54. It is nuances such as this that continue to prevail throughout the Pre-Fall 2023 presentation, thus making this Fletcher’s most sophisticated and advanced work for the House in his near-four-year tenure.
T-shirts and Harrington jackets are embroidered with a “Fiorucci World Over Italia” insignia, informed by a vintage Fiorucci jacket the Creative Director bought for his personal use. On a more introspective level, a tan blazer is trimmed with an opulent faux shearling collar and buckles inspired by the designer’s eponymous brand’s collections — a detail that features again on a faux leather car coat, it too matching faux leather brown pants with a slight ’70s fit and feel.
Wool is tightly bonded and brushed to create thick, lush materials used on a red “Safety Jeans” sweater vest and another cream item, while the ’70s vibe is continued with brown corduroy suit jackets decorated with branded tags on the cuffs, layered atop logomanic shirts and angelic vests.
But despite the use of a new, muted color palette, or silhouettes that ironically feel fresh for the brand, there’s plenty of House codes that have been dug into. For example, the banana bag is informed by a print commissioned by Elio Fiorucci to Andy Warhol, while incognito ties that sport the same pattern of the shirt is a quintessential retro touch.
Fiorucci’s Pre-Fall 2023 collection is Fletcher at his best. Take a look at the collection in the lookbook above, and pick up the pieces from Fiorucci’s website or Soho, London store, now.
In other news, GOOMHEO is getting hot and heavy for FW23.