Eckhaus Latta FW23 Forecasts a Fluid Future
With shearling vests, abstract mohair sweaters, vivid skorts and wet-looking organza.
It-boy mobs, industry heavyweights and Orville Peck in New York City’s East Village on Saturday night could only mean one thing: an Eckhaus Latta show was happening. On the fourth floor of Performance Space New York, namesake visionaries Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus set a dark, misty stage for their Fall/Winter 2023 runway. There, the nonconformist imprint presented a range informed by a quote from The New Yorker writer Rachel Aviv’s debut book, Strangers to Ourselves: “Culture shapes the scripts that expressions of distress will follow.”
On the spotlit path, White Lotus‘ Jon Gries (yes, the actor who played the conniving husband of Jennifer Coolidge’s dearly-missed Tanya McQuoid) made his fashion week debut wearing a composition yellow-and-green mohair sweater with relaxed, roomy trousers. His look was followed by a posse of linen cuts — specifically, button-down shirts, raw trousers and skirts — as well as a legion of slate-grey ensembles. Among them, a matching cardigan and straight pants were decorated with black zippers sprawling up, down and across their wearer for desired levels of exposure.
Vests were all the rage. In look 15, a shearling iteration sported blue color blocking, pairing nicely with wide-legged jeans; look 18 included a loosely knit, slightly-cropped take in “sand,” and look 22 redid the classic shape with an open-back construction.
Bottoms sought attention, too. Barbie-pink corduroy snap trousers saw a sea of front-row iPhones rise in unison, while a Husk Pant lit the runway in fluorescent green. A playful Club Skort flaunted kaleidoscopic stripes in a colorway the brand calls “Spritz,” and denim received a “Geode” treatment with sprayed streaks of orange, blue and green. In coated indigo, ultra wide-leg jeans glistened under the lights, proving to be the collection’s hero.
Later, organza played a trick on the eyes, appearing wet — or, dare I say, moist. In look 28, the sheer textile scrunched and clung to a model’s body as if she’d just been dunked in the pool. In look 29, the orange-hued fabric composed a button-down shirt with a pointed shape, still looking stylishly damp. In all, Eckhaus Latta’s FW23 designs emphasized the fun in fluid fashion while still prioritizing wearability.
Indulge in Eckhaus Latta’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere at New York Fashion Week, Dion Lee’s FW23 collection shed a second skin.
