Marco Capaldo‘s cult label 16Arlington has made a name for itself in the world of all that shimmers and shines, delivering party dresses, statement coats and an “it”-bag to the girls in the know. And while this was still at the forefront of its Fall/Winter 2023 collection “Wake,” which debuted yesterday as part of London Fashion Week, the brand also welcomed a new line of menswear that followed in the footsteps of its subtler womenswear looks.
In fact, 16Arlington takes the collection name “Wake” quite literally, as its new direction for menswear awoke something in its womenswear. Sheer numbers, daringly-plunged necklines and feathers were still found in abundance, but there was also a sense of softness to the FW23 range, as opposed to last season’s focus on jewels and glitter.
For example, faux fur was used like a suit of armor for a top that transformed one’s silhouette, while sequins were used in a multitude of ways — maximal across a two-piece dress, and minimally to delicately update a soft woolen v-neck sweater. As for the menswear, such softness was exactly what Capaldo achieved, as the first men’s look used gray wool in a loose-fitting, tailored track suit manner that saw a top get feminine touches of chest-closing laces.
Classic three-button black suits were again updated, this time with jacket hems dazzling in black sequins, while 16Arlington tropes came to play in the men’s world with a sheer black skin-tight muscle top that was covered in black embellished crystals. Naturally, we also saw an expansion of its signature bag, quite literally. One men’s look focusing on the long, black faux coat was overpowered by the brown crocodile leather-effect Kikka bag (named after the late 16Arlington co-founder Federica “Kikka” Cavenati) that now grew into oversized duffle proportions, showing how its womenswear “it”-bag could be adapted by a more reserved male audience.
16Arlington’s FW23 collection was concise and considered, and truly felt as if the brand had focused on creating a wardrobe for its IYKYK clientele. Now, their male counterparts can get a slice of the fun, too. Take a look at the collection above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more London Fashion Week FW23 content.