Even megastars have their go-to footwear options, and for South Korean hip-hop/R&B artist Zion.T, the footwear of choice is the famed Tabi Ankle Boot from Maison Margiela. A staple style in the Margiela lineup — one that’s been produced every year since it was unveiled at the brand’s first fashion show in 1989 — the Tabi boot’s forefoot is cloven like a horse’s hoof, separating the big toe from the rest of the foot and providing a singular look, first seen as far back as the 1500s, that Martin Margiela called upon in an effort to make his footwear look like a bare foot resting on a chunky heel.

Zion.T got his first pair of Tabi ankle boots almost two years ago, and knew straightaway that he’d found his go-to footwear style, posting a circle of no less than 10 pairs on Instagram recently. He compares collecting the vintage pairs he prefers to finding rare and special flowers in nature, meaning each one is to be treasured. To find out more about Zion.T’s passion for Margiela’s famed heeled shoes, Hypebeast stopped by his studio for a Sole Mates chat with him about why he loves the design, where he shops, his thoughts on the legacy of Martin Margiela, how the boots correlate with music and more.

Here’s a fun fact: Maison Margiela Tabi ankle boots and Zion T are the same age, both born in 1989. How did you come across these boots?

They were first introduced to me by [stylist] Kwak Ha-neul, who’s actually here in the studio with us today. He’s got a huge love of Margiela and I was influenced by it. When we first met, I was trying to find a style of shoe that I’d never, ever get tired of, even if I wore them for the rest of my life, and when he introduced me to these, I thought “This is it. This is what I’ve been looking for.”

What was the first pair you bought?

A black pair, then I got a white pair shortly thereafter. I tend to prefer vintage models over brand-new ones, as there will be subtle differences depending on the year of production, and there’s a character that comes with light wear — I don’t like a brand-new shoe that looks like it’s just been sitting on a display. That can make it hard to find the exact pair I’m looking for, so when I do I’ll usually grab it right away. If I find a seller who has a few pairs, I might even do some haggling.

You recently posted an impressive assortment of Tabi ankle boots on your Instagram. When did you start collecting in earnest?

About two years ago. I wear them almost every day now. They’re comfortable, even though I was worried they might have a long break-in period at first, and provide what I think is a sophisticated look and a classic charm that don’t fall into the loud nature of modern trends. I don’t usually have a ton of attachment to things, but these boots are different

How do you choose what pair you’re going to wear on a given day?

Instead of picking a specific pair for a specific activity, I just leave the pairs I own out so I can grab them and change it up at any given time. If I’m going to chill, go the office, go to the studio, I’ve got a pair for every mood and will sometimes change my shoes a few times a day. Even if I start the day wearing sneakers, I’ll generally wind up in my Tabis at some point. There’s just a unique feeling you get when you wear them, and putting a pair on is exciting every time.

How do you style a pair?

I think that as long as you have a clear idea of your taste, whatever that taste may be, then you can pull them off because there are so many different colors and materials to choose from. A lot of times, you might feel like it’s a piece of footwear that has to be dressed up, but it honestly looks great with a super-casual outfit, even something like a hoodie. Honestly, I like to match it with a more comfortable ‘fit than going all-out.

What are your thoughts on Martin Margiela?

He’s really cool. I see him as a true artist, one who made unique clothing, accessories and jewelry by sublimating his own view of the world into his designs. Even 15 years after his retirement, his products are still influential and valuable enough to be collected. That’s unique.

If you made music inspired by Tabi ankle boots what would it sound like?

It would probably feature a rather minimal composition, something with organs and guitars. Classical instrumentation with a trendy edge, but more a performance piece than a “song,” so to speak. Maybe vocals for an irregularly-timed chorus, and a run length of about eight minutes.

What music that already exists do you think matches the vibe of these boots?

The soundtrack to the Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1989 show, composed by Frédéric Sanchez. You can listen to it on SoundCloud. I’ve heard that Sanchez and Margiela worked together on every show after that first one as well.

Why are shoes important to you?

They’re reflective of so many different moods, and help you make sure every day is different.

What Zion.T and Tabi ankle boots have in common, besides the birthday, is that they adhere to the basics but have elements that go beyond expectations.

Is that so? I’ll take it [laughs].

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This installment of Sole Mates is a transcription and translation of an original article from Hypebeast Korea, which was first written in Korean and was translated using Google Translate.