In the aftermath of Diesel’s eight-hour mega-rave in Milan, Glenn Martens touched down in Paris earlier this week to put the final touches on his Spring/Summer 2024 offering for Y/Project. Blending dyed denim, perversive codes and reptilian inspirations, the collection effectively twisted the rules for what contemporary fashion can be, while once again proving Martens’ unwavering design prowess.
In the opening ensembles, oversized tan trench coats boasted hoods and skin-revealing sections that were let loose by intricate buttons, while small tops, reading the brand’s name, were twisted and tied in the front for distortion. Blazers and dressy trousers adopted an all-over fiery motif; denim pants were buttoned from hip to heel, and sweat shorts clasped onto plaid iterations in a modern mix of materials.
Martens continued to toy with broken-up silhouettes in his subsequent looks: jackets featured two zipper sections that were both undone to form the shape of the letter “Y,” and baggy athletic shorts appeared to fall from the waist on one side. Similarly, pairings were blissfully abnormal: lounge shorts were layered over denim trousers, and silky textiles met pinstripe cotton in elongated, multi-tone gowns. In all the chaos, Martens’ masterful execution of risk-taking tailoring and fabric manipulation paid off.
This season, subversion was the key word. Varsity jackets were completely rearranged across the body to create unconventional tops that still felt familiar; and buttons on dresses were mismatched, fueling the line’s carefree persona with something purposefully incorrect. Later on, the collection took a turn for the avant-garde, with shirts, pants and skirts assuming tornado-like facades via multi-dimensional rouching.
The line’s heroes, however, were arguably the slithering reptiles that dangled from models’ necks. In black, grey and pink, an entourage of couture-like serpents were barred to their wearers with metal closures, claiming the spotlight against a sea of heavily graphic dresses. Bags, too, were worth nothing, with several resembling crinkled leather coats and others flaunting the Y/Project name on denim.
See Y/Project’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.