Over the past few months, the fashion world has been swept away with several shows for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. With each season, people come to expect glamour exhibitions from prominent luxury houses like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and more. Although there is a long list of highly anticipated names the industry watches out for, equally exciting moments occur with the fashion week deep cuts – where smaller brands reign with unrestricted creativity across the world stage. From Berlin to Taipei, check out 10 of the best SS24 runway presentations from regional fashion weeks.
Berlin Fashion Week: SF1OG
For its latest collection, Rosa Marga Dahl’s emerging label has been finding the balance between the past and sustainable efforts – all with a modernized touch. The new collection dove into equestrian sports, well a hybridized version of it, to present balanced, yet remixed tailored ensembles washed in a crisp white and black color palette.
Copenhagen Fashion Week: Latimmier
Ervin Latimer’s third collection for his eponymous label served as a forward-facing retrospective of the designs he’s demonstrated thus far. Of course, new styling and silhouettes glided across the runway, but what stood out was the way Latimer stayed focused on the work, in a very literal sense. From deconstructed striped button-down tops to relaxed slightly high-waisted pants, the Finnish designer put a new spin on office-ready fashion.
Seoul Fashion Week: BLR
Centering on youthful rebellion, BLR’s latest collection featured all the hallmarks of streetwear – casual stylings fit with an edge. However, the focus of the collection was the idea of collectivism and how ideas transcend when connected with a group. The brand then took this idea and demonstrated the power of said courage with dark-hued denim being a key driver.
Tokyo Fashion Week: Kanako Sakai
With Kanako Sakai’s SS24 collection, it would come as a shock to many that the label is only two years old. In such an early stage, the Japanese designer is demonstrating a design prowess and refinement that many labels only harbor much later in their lifetime. Whether it be a hybridized, relaxed white suiting or a decadent red seamless jacket, Sakai finds harmony with timeless stylings and forward-thinking design tactics – exemplified by her use of woven crushed seashells.
New York Fashion Week: Elena Velez
Rising name Elena Velez took to a mud-filled swamp to showcase her idea of the duality of womanhood. Filled with neutral tones, the strength in Velez’s latest stems from her usage of fanciful, yet sexy layering and dramatically captivating design details.
London Fashion Week: Aaron Esh
Emerging label and LVMH Prize finalist, Aaron Esh, presented a beautiful vision of menswear alongside its debut womenswear offerings for SS24. The blend of Savile Row tailoring alongside the exaltation of British subcultures made for a collection that was equally soft, suave and strong – regardless of gender.
Milan Fashion Week: Han Kjøbenhavn
Han Kjøbenhavn’s new “Enlightened Particals” collection looked to the Duomo Catholic Church for inspiration – casting its focus on sculptural silhouettes with an erotic and eerie flare. “There are always aspects that remain undiscovered or not fully realized. It’s about enlightenment and the uncovering of hidden capabilities,” said founder/creative director, Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen. In this vain, futuristic broad-shoulder suits, molded dresses and eye-catching bodysuits were all at play.
Paris Fashion Week: HELIOT EMIL
HELIOT EMIL’s latest leans into layering – taking its overall aesthetic and capabilities into new territory. Yes, the collection still harbors elements of the brand’s utilitarian core. But the newness here is that Julius and Victor are not just preparing for the street anymore. Their expanded take takes the wearer to the street, dinner table, theater, gala and more as it serves as perhaps the brand’s most sophisticatedly versatile offering to date.
Shanghai Fashion Week: STAFFONLY
Shimo Zhou and Une Yea’s Shanghai-based label, STAFFONLY, extends its look at the brand’s core philosophy, staff. But to take matters a step further, the designers wanted to focus on the beauty of communal identity and the creative process. As such, employee-oriented wear grew to new forms – bringing both a newfound sense of technical and enchantingly oversized elements.
Taipei Fashion Week: JUST IN XX
The Taiwanese streetwear designer, Justin Yu-Ying Chou, opted for an experimental approach toward design this season. Specifically, the designer investigated AI-generated characters to bring a broadened view to how styles/identities both form and flow.