sacai Experiments With Swollen Utility for SS24

Chitose Abe left her trademark bomber jackets behind, presenting a utilitarian wardrobe overwhelmed by inflated silhouettes.

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Japanese designer Chitose Abe launched her eponymous label — sacai — in 1999, establishing herself in the global fashion landscape. sacai is recognized for its hybrid approach to utilitarian uniforms, leaving its trademark bomber jackets behind for Spring/Summer 2024.

While last season was wealthy in collaboration, SS24 sees sacai expand its design language through swollen silhouettes that manipulate the body. The brand welcomed guests — including Pharrell Williams, Tyga, and SAINt JHN — inside a spiraled car park where models would walk the cemented runway. Abe strayed from her customary designs to deliver an elevated wardrobe that is striking and bold yet practical and sexy.

The first look featured a cropped wool blazer with popped collars and slashed shorts, followed by nylon variations, puffed shirting, and corseted underpinnings. Sheer tops and layered trench coats collided with hooded vests ornamented with adjustable toggles, while mini skirts dramatically extended at the rear. Swollen denim uniforms walked next to mismatched striped button-downs and deconstructed knitwear, seeing military hues accent additional garments that defied commonality.

Take a closer look at sacai’s SS24 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more Paris Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.

Elsewhere, Louis Vuitton SS24 took pattern-heavy city uniforms to the runway.

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