Christopher Kane is back in full force. Throughout the pandemic, the designer kept runway activities on the DL, choosing to focus on his laidback “More Joy” merchandise line. The Spring/Summer 2022 season saw the womenswear designer return to the London Fashion Week stage with a collection that was “Conservative yet Playful, Subversive but Sensual, Hard against Soft, Sinister versus Innocent,” as described in the show notes. For Fall 2022, Kane supplied a flirtatiously sensual range, oozing with monstrous sex appeal.
For Christopher Kane’s SS23 presentation, the designer dissected the female body, taking a surgical scalpel of sorts to depict its graceful anatomy.
The designer wrapped up London Fashion Week’s Sunday night affairs, hosting (we believe) hundreds of fashion-hungry guests at Camden Roundhouse, the legendary concert venue glorified by the likes of Pink Floyd, Jimi Hendrix and The Doors, to name a few. Ahead of showtime, a nationwide minute-of-silence took place in honor of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. What followed showcased Kane in a roaring light, demonstrating a tasteful array of materials and a sense of sweet innocence, all while maintaining the sensuality he is known for at its peak.
A throbbing musical beat set the scene as if Kane was igniting a concert of his own. For SS23, the designer praised the female figure inside and out. Presenting a collection that lingered between surface skin and muscle tissue, semi-sheer organza skirt suits kicked off the offering, decorated with lace and folded at the hems, mimicking layers of skin. Clear vinyl cutouts dominated every look, replacing bra straps and suspending them mid-air. Models shinned at every step as the glossy material roughly impersonated body parts outlining six-pack abs, breasts and collar bones. Gleaming silk dresses were embellished with muscular drawings of hands, arms, legs, and feet, delivering a comical approach to the anatomical structure. These signalled the strength of the body, stamped down the length of dresses, wrapping around the waist, and suspending down the shoulders of models who walked the runway.
Delicate pink florals in bloom enhanced short-sleeved nurse dresses and knits, spreading a tender message of celebration and sympathy for The Queen’s passing.
In the footwear department, Kane dispatched an array of silhouettes that conveyed sharp edges as if produced in a surgical room, while others featured biological depictions of the feet and toes.
In other news, 16Arlington SS23 was a symbol of everlasting love.