Is Burberry Ready To Move On From Riccardo Tisci With Daniel Lee?
The former Bottega Veneta head creative is rumored to succeed Tisci.
A new rumor appears to be taking the luxury fashion world by storm. Daniel Lee is reportedly replacing Riccardo Tisci as the next creative director of Burberry, signaling a major change for the heritage British label. While neither the house nor Daniel Lee has confirmed if this is true, the rumor has nonetheless sparked the question of whether or not Burberry is ready to move away from Tisci and whether or not Lee is the one for the job.
The rumors were first ignited by WWD, when the publication claimed that it had obtained new information from an “industry source” that the former Bottega Veneta creative head is currently in “advanced discussions” with Burberry’s upper management. The move toward a new creative director is not unsurprising, since Tisci’s contract with the house ends in 2023. When Tisci first joined Burberry in 2018, many fashion critics were skeptical of the decision. While he will always be considered a veteran in the world of luxury fashion, his appointment at Burberry did not create as much of a buzz as one might expect. Prior to taking on the new role at the British fashion house, Tisci was Givenchy‘s creative director between 2005 to 2017 where he introduced an unforgettable meld of Gothic design with futuristic minimalism to the French label.
At the time when Tisci joined Burberry, the label was already in need of a branding face-lift that would amalgamate the house’s almost two-century old heritage values and the contemporary ethos that sees luxury focus on real-to-wear. Tisci brought a sense of sleek minimalism that resembled parts of Phoebe Philo‘s “old” Céline, but has also included moments of theatrical maximalism that would be equated to Gucci‘s own Alessandro Michele. Under his tenure, the designer revamped the Burberry image, modernizing the branding and stabilizing the growth of the company. Understanding that Burberry has always fallen into the category of premium luxury as opposed to ultra-luxury, Tisci was able to take the brand in an unforeseen direction to appeal to the masses. Following the present-day real-to-wear trend demanded by luxury clients, he was able to turn Burberry into an elevated brand that has transcended the traditional streetwear connotation, while also maintaining heritage house values.
Despite operating in the midst of the pandemic, Tisci was still able to repopularize the brand, expanding its visibility by utilizing his relationship with celebrities like Beyoncé, Madonna, Billie Eilish and Bella Hadid to grow its streetwear range and introduce the new “TB” monogram . He also launched co-branded collaborations with the likes of Opening Ceremony and Vivienne Westwood. His star-studded campaigns as well as influencer-approved handbags like the Lola, have proven to be a major hit amongst trend spotters.
Around the same time as Tisci’s appointment, Lee was putting in his work as Bottega Veneta’s creative director between 2018 and 2021. Lee’s transformation of Bottega has helped the house to harness a new generation of consumers, something that the brand had been struggling with prior to his leadership. Perhaps one of his greatest achievements at the house included reviving the Intrecciato pattern – he created hype around the Pouch clutch and Cassette bag, all while building up to the reformed reputation of the brand, better known as “New Bottega.” His creative leadership not only included product design, but Lee’s ability to create buzz by focusing on a “no social media” strategy is to be commended. In an internet age, Lee proved that he could ensure Bottega’s relevance without a presence on social media.
When Bottega and Lee made the “joint decision” to announce his departure from the house, it sent shockwaves throughout the industry, with many eager to know where he will land next. Now, about a year after the news, it appears that fans may have an answer. Different from Tisci’s vision at Burberry, Lee has been able to consistently elevate Bottega’s interest without a social media presence and all while not comprising the traditional Bottega essence by following the overwhelming streetwear trends. Lee maintained the clean-cut aesthetic, while still keeping the vision fresh. Looking back at Lee’s success and his potential new position at Burberry, it poses the question of whether or not Lee will be able to continue his successful streak and bring his creative direction to the London-based brand.
So, as the industry gears up for a series of changes, fashion onlookers will have to be patient and see what Burberry has in store next and whether or not it is ready to part with Riccardo Tisci and start a new partnership with Daniel Lee. What is certain is that no matter who will take on the role, they will be refreshing the brand under difficult circumstances brought on by the shifts in the industry and economy.
In other big fashion changes in the luxury world, Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner, and Telfar Clemens are reportedly front runners in succeeding Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton.
