Under the Creative Direction of Maria Holzweiler, the sibling duo Andreas and Susanne Holzweiler’s eponymous Oslo-based label Holzweiler parachuted into Copenhagen Fashion Week with its Spring/Summer 2023 collection, “In Motion.” With menswear and womenswear looking to deconstruct formality, Holzweiler presented garments that felt dynamic, crafted from once-motion-centric materials such as parachutes, Taiwanese rush weaving, tassels and more that wrapped, concorted and consumed the body.
Deadstock parachutes not only formed the water balloons that circled in the air above the runway, but also inspired much of the collection. The raw edges of the material, its hooks, clips, and rings, all came together to inform a vivid green and blue patchwork jumpsuit, looking like a streetwear-meets-couture uniform for instructors. Likewise, ruching and cords on co-ords emulated the panic mode of a parachute wrapping around one’s body mid-air, while other sky-high references such as aviation allowed Holzweiler to look deeper with its SS23 collection.
A cotton boiler suit equipped with zippers on the leg was one of the most understated pieces, while running motifs littered across the collection drew inspiration from vintage ’90s skydiving advertisements. A black trench coat was styled with skydiving straps running over the shoulder and dropping down the front with its twisted ropes nodding to the overarching theme once more, while a cream patchwork nylon jacket tapped the aviation tones.
Looking closer, we find suits that billow and cascade from the shoulder and leg, skirts suspended with ropes, netting forming tank tops and vegan leather crochet sitting alongside pilot’s hats, G-force-protecting aviator helmets and macramé corsets all coming together to complete Holzweiler’s “In Motion” dialogue.
Take a look at the Holzweiler SS23 “In Motion” runway show in the gallery above and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more CPHFW content.
Elsewhere, Hello Kitty sat front row for Soulland SS23.