TOGA VIRILIS FW22 Explores the Softer Side of Menswear

Contrasting traditions with non-conformist proportions, silhouettes and materials.

Fashion
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Yasuko Furuta‘s TOGA VIRILIS is back for Fall/Winter 2022, and this time around it touches upon the subdued side of menswear. In recent years, the label has honed in on its Western references, tailoring execution, and slouchy aesthetic, and for FW22 it seems that all of this knowledge has come together in one 19-look collection.

Suit pants are flared from the knee-down, kicking out to shroud even the chunkiest of footwear. Belts sinch the waist, and waists are higher than ever before. Jackets are cropped and shirts are tucked in to further constrain the traditional proportions of menswear. For TOGA VIRILIS, this all comes together for it to explore what it describes as “feminine details,” but as we’ve seen in the world of menswear as of late, everything is becoming more expressive, more playful and more enjoyable to wear as shapes interact with our bodies more personally.

The traditional stereotypes surrounding a faux fur coat are contradicted by its army green leather interior, while a black pinstriped overcoat sports a detachable faux fur shawl, hanging from the hem in a deconstructed manner that adds both softness and an edge to the outerwear piece. Likewise, a feather boa-esque neckerchief is worn alongside a caramel suit with orange satin stripes and Western detailing on the pockets, while a grungey sweater and oxblood leather pants are contrasted with a silk neck tie.

For the upcoming season, TOGA VIRILIS FW22 hits the nail on the head. It perfectly combines everything we’ve come to expect from the brand, but elevates it to the current consumer, one who isn’t afraid to experiment with proportions. However, the simplicticty of it all also makes the pieces work on their own, subsequently making it the collection for anyone. Check out the collection in the lookbook above, and expect it to drop at retailers such as Selfridges, Goodhood, Lane Crawford and more by the end of July.

In case you missed it, take a look at JW Anderson’s third Tom of Finland collaboration.

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