UK-based designer Mowalola returned to fashion week for her first runway show in three years, presenting the “Burglarwear” collection and debuting a collaboration with New Balance. As the collection’s name suggests, inspiration comes from an examination of what it takes to steal, with a wide array of characters all presented with one thing in common: their lack of remorse.
These characters – including white collar bankers, pastors and Lagos’ internet scammers known as Yahoo Boys – see their typical dress reinterpreted through Mowalola’s eyes. Ecclesiastical wear is reimagined in black leather, complete with a crucifix cut out, banker-inspired tailoring is cut away at the hips and balaclavas are fixed to low-rise trousers through slashed fabric.
Another theme comes through the color palette of cobalt blue, blood red and acid yellow, which runs across cropped jackets, full body suits and miniskirts, with the various tones inspired by comic book supervillains. Elsewhere, items sport intentionally restricted arms, alluding to what it means to be stolen, with nods to submission and kidnapping.
The Spring/Summer 2023 show also gave a first look at Mowalola’s upcoming New Balance collaboration. Focused on the 90/60 silhouette, the collaboration draws on the shoe’s ‘00s roots while als exaggerating its midsole and dressing it in a black and purple colorway with yellow accents, and another that mixes black and teal with pink detailing. According to Mowalola, the shoe is “designed with memories of sweat-hazed dancefloors in mind, it offers the ideal support for busy nights out – or days on the run.”
Take a look through Mowalola’s SS23 “Burglarwear” collection in the gallery above. The New Balance 90/60 collaboration is due to launch in Fall 2022.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, take a backstage look at Loewe’s SS23 show.