Fendi Spring/Summer 2023 is a delightful array of textures, prints and motifs, flicking splashes of watercolor alongside fringed, distressed denim and animal prints for a collection that well and truly kicked off day two of Milan Fashion Week with a bang. Under Silvia Venturini Fendi‘s creative direction, it’s clear to see she’s been eavesdropping on Kim Jones‘ Fendi womenswear — he too referenced nature and animals for Fendi’s Spring 2022 collection — and now it’s menswear’s turn to explore the realm of contrasts and juxtapositions.
“It’s about a balance of decoration and simplicity. An ageless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time,” explains Miss. Fendi. The collection reflects on the free time many search for, pulling from the great outdoors to offer colors such as melon and indigo to ochre, putty, cornflower blue and silver-gray. Weather patterns swirl on thermographic jacquard coats, while the use of cowhide continues the naturalistic references — here, decorating full denim sets, the iconic Baguette bag and more.
Distressed trompe l’oeil prints on robes and twill shirt jackets, elongated five-pocket jeans, Baguette bags and shoppers lean towards something otherworldly, while the signature Fendi monogram remained a staple part of the SS23 collection to bring that required commerciality to the collection. However, this is no bad move, as the motif adorned chunky loafers, neck-strap bags, and a new skate sneaker that is, in some instances, bejeweled with beads.
There were also technical tropes courtesy of Fendi’s use of “ultrasound Selleria,” or simply, bonded topstitching and leather patch pockets that created shadow-esque shapes on anoraks and raincoats. Ultralight wool transformed formal trousers into ones that gathered at the ankle, feeding into the skate sneaker’s aesthetic, while contrasting footwear such as the lug-sole O’Lock buckle loafers and fringed denim or suede moccasins were paired with chambray shorts, high-cut jorts, baggy beach club-ready shorts and more.
Cutting through the collection are the watercolor motifs, dappling the warm tones on muted, exquisitely-proportioned tailoring that subverted traditions. Take the overshirt for example — done up and without, Fendi would present a simple beige piece, but the warm earthy brown tones give the look a tinge of psychedelia, performed in the house’s signature sophisticated way.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2023 can be seen in the gallery above, while more Milan Fashion Week coverage can be found on HYPEBEAST.
In case you missed it, take a look at the 1017 ALYX 9SM SS23 show.