1017 ALYX 9SM Rewrites the Luxe Streetwear Rulebook for SS23

Matthew M Williams‘ 1017 ALYX 9SM has decoded the ideals and norms around streetwear for the label’s Spring/Summer 2023 runway show, “MOTION.” Taking over a disused swimming pool on the outskirts of Milan, hundreds of onlookers sat front row as Williams’ models and muses awkwardly strutted along the tiled path — notably with the standout moment from the show on their feet, the new Nike x MMW 005 mule.

Seen in black and light gray, the latest addition to Williams’s Nike Zoom series draws from his brand’s now-signature footwear, while also injecting references to Nike thanks to the co-branding on the vamp and extended heel at the rear, acting as a nod to former MMW designs. Footwear continued to evolve thanks to 1017 ALYX 9SM’s reworking of the Mono Boot, appearing in an expanded range of experimental colors and high-tech yet artisanal treatments. The all-new ARIA sneaker in both low and high iterations also arrived, combining know-how learned from the development of the Mono, creating a shoe sole that’s big, bulky and unavoidable and pairing it with a breathable, lightweight upper.

As for the collection itself, Williams presented a co-ed offering of decoded and deconstructed streetwear, tinged with the brand’s usual luxe flair. Layering was key, but in such hot weather the brand had managed to develop technical structures and weave knits that were almost weightless, billowing in the light breeze as the models walked. Many dresses are made from bathing suit technical stretch fabrics, again adding to comfort and flexibility in hot climates, while trousers — particularly the wide-legs — are unisex, deemed so by their shapeless, falling silhouette that sits atop the Moon Boot.

Leather biker jackets informed a white elongated leather coat, while Williams’ work at Givenchy evidently influenced the darker side of the SS23 “MOTION” collection, showcasing baggy leather trousers paired with Rick Owens-esque mesh knits or hooded capes. Sleeveless vests equipped with snap buttons and zipped hardware, distressed denim Canadian tuxedos, and a neon yellow faux feather explored the diversity of the brand, while a new peace sign logo appeared to harmonise the brand’s streetwear undertones.

Rounding out 1017 ALYX 9SM’s SS23 collection are the new ALBA and LILA bags. The first comes in “Plain,” “Fluo” and “Shiny” leather iterations, each sporting the quintessential ALYX Micro Buckle clasp closure alongside metal hardware that was specifically developed for this bag. Alternatively, the Lila bag is remiscent of origami, adapting its shape as the wearer interacts with the object.

Take a look at the 1017 ALYX 9SM SS23 “MOTION” runway show in the gallery above, and stay tuned to HYPEBEAST for more Milan Fashion Week content.

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