Willy Chavarria is no stranger to playing with silhouettes, subverting traditional menswear designs such as workwear, and making his collection speak to a sexier, free, self-expressive person. For Fall 2022, Chavarria elevated his usual cues — oversized elements remained in abundance, but everything took a moodier turn for a collection that showcased a darker side of the Californian designer.
Workwear played a big part of the collection in two ways. First, USA sweaters reworked to include the dollar bill in the letter’s shapes were paired with construction site denim, while a Dickies collaboration appeared — as it has done for the past seven years — only now it was officially cemented as a Chavarria signature, one he knows how to execute with distinct taste and character. In the “UNCUT” collection, Dickies’ Work Shirt appeared with oversized shoulders in tandem with the reworked Eisenhower Jacket that presented exaggerated sleeves, while staples such as the 874 Work Pant now come with flares and a high waist.
Elsewhere, sporting tropes adorned T-shirts and vests worn over exaggerated dagger collar shirts — a motif found throughout the collection in various guises, notably reworking a denim jacket with huge pointed collars and lapels, or the trench coat dress that also gets the dagger treatment.
As the show went on, looks became more daring and evolved — a green overcoat billowed atop matching pants, while a deep loveheart-shaped blue shawl jacket darted towards baggy pants in the same hue.
Altogether, “UNCUT” was Willy Chavarria at his most free. Take a look at the collection in the gallery above.
In other news, Edwin has arrived for SS22.