Each season, it feels as if Matthew M Williams settles into his role as Givenchy‘s Creative Director more and more — and for Pre-Fall 2023 the designer has hit the nail on the head with a selection of clothes that sit between streetwear, tailoring, and the luxury realm.
Classics are contemporized and tailoring is tweaked to usher in a welcomed surge of youth identity, the market that Givenchy is continuously tapping into with its recent work (à la the TK-360+, (B).STROY collaboration and GIV CUT sunglasses). PF23 echoes such twists, as an opening formal ensemble is decoded: Givenchy-branded lapels are oversized and fall into the loose-fitting silhouette of the blazer, worn atop a traditional checkered under blazer and suit pants that are trimmed with Givenchy-branded tape like a pair of track pants.
Tailored pants are transformed into zip-hem cargos, while a boxy blazer doubles as an overshirt thanks to its central zipper closure. And while formal cues are evident — a navy suit cut in a minimalistic fashion appears with a single metal clasp on the front for example — such looks are paired with future-facing footwear derivative of the House’s sneaker design language, here far more retro-tech in their study.
The sneakers, notably served in a variety of colors but prominently one in white and orange, take the bulbous heel of the TK360 and pair it with a more traditional retro runner upper, utilizing mesh and leather for something evocative of the aughts. We find this alongside baggy cargo jeans, black uniforms akin to Williams’ work at 1017 ALYX 9SM, relaxed washed-out black denim two-pieces, varsity-esque hoodies, and arguably the star of PF23, a leather jacket.
This piece, served in plush black leather, evokes Riccardo Tisci’s tenure at the House. Studs glisten across the chest as they spell out Givenchy’s name, while the cut is cropped and youthful, especially when paired with the track tape-seamed skirt and Nike Air Force 1 High-esque sneakers.
Take a look at Givenchy’s Pre-Fall 2023 collection in the gallery above, and shop the House’s current range online or in your nearest boutique.
Elsewhere, CELINE is in its indie sleaze era.