Hedi Slimane's CELINE Enters Its Indie Sleaze Era for Winter 2023
The “AGE OF INDIENESS” runway show brought undertones of ’90s and noughties indie grunge references to the fore.
Hedi Slimane is in an “AGE OF INDIENESS,” elevating his rock aesthetic at CELINE into one derived from the ’90s and early 2000s indie sleaze era. For the occasion of the House’s latest runway show, Slimane took Winter 2023 to The Wiltern in Los Angeles, an art deco movie palace institution that has since become home to musical performers including Prince, The Rolling Stones, Lou Reed, Blur, Amy Winehouse and many others that shaped rock ‘n’ roll music. Now, it welcomes Slimane’s cast of live performers — notably Iggy Pop, The Strokes, Interpol, and The Kills — in a fashion show of volume, opulence, and indie undertones.
As the fashion world increasingly breaks down barriers between men’s and womenswear, CELINE presents its Winter 2023 show co-ed style. The result is a wardrobe for all, soundtracked to “Hello Operator,” an original track by The White Stripes. Setting the tone in style, the House presented indie sleaze as if it had been through not just Slimane’s skinny-fitting blender but also the fashion world’s vision. In short, indie has never looked so luxurious.
Tailoring is at the fore, opening with a suit that presents undertones of indieness with gold buttons running from collar to hem before fringed accessories, a bohemian slouchy leather bag, and riding boots come together for off-duty rock star chic. Likewise, such out-of-office references come with faux fur jackets dazzling with gold feathers hanging from the piece, jeans as skinny as they can be, leather boy jackets, and of course, the quintessential pair of tight leather pants.
But it’s the menswear where Slimane shines for Winter 2023, capturing the zeitgeist that is indie sleaze. A red blazer is fitted with gold trims for a royal rock number, fit for both Beefeaters or a Freddy Mercury homage, while the styling of loose ties worn on undone white shirts under checkered car coats ushers in a Northern British indie rock aesthetic (think Arctic Monkeys, early Oasis, et al).
Prince is echoed with a black power suit, shoulders pointing to the nines as high-heeled black leather boots complement the look, while a preppier theme comes in with leather teddy bomber jackets, cigarette-tailored trousers and polished brown pointed boots. Stage performance is explored with silver-trimmed sparkling suits and sheer tops cut with bow ties and ruffles, while a gold lamé suit continues Slimane’s study on looks fit for rock stars.
Combined, CELINE Winter 2023 presents everything Slimane knows and loves. It’s a strong identity, one that has carried him from House to House in its foolproof manner, and this season feels just like another extension of his mastery. Take a look at the collection above.
For more rock goodness, check out Gucci Vault’s take on Dickies’ essentials.
