Martine Rose Brings Gender-Free Liberation to Tommy Jeans' '90s Archive
“I really enjoyed being able to explore American subculture and create a campaign that not only celebrates, but rightly spotlights marginalized communities.”
Martine Rose is one of the U.K.’s brightest and most loved talents, bringing subcultural tropes to divisive Nike sneakers, an air of nonchalance and irreverence to the runway, and now, an appearance at Pitti Uomo 103. But prior to this (and any potential appointment at a particularly well-known luxury house), Rose has debuted her latest collaboration, this time around working with Tommy Jeans for a 35-piece gender-inclusive capsule collection inspired by the latter’s ’90s archive.
Having explored Tommy Jeans’ archive of icons, Rose split things up and pieced it all back together under her lens of subcultural familiarity and norms. It’s not daring, that’s not the Rose way, instead it’s wearable, instantly classic and iconic, and designed to play on the exaggerated proportions and streetwear undertones that have gone on to become a cornerstone of Rose’s brand.
Blending her visual identity with Tommy Jeans might feel left-field, one is ironic, the other is serious about being preppy. But combined, the result delivers the likes of a varsity jacket, a hoodie, puffer and robe coats that take ’90s references and work in Rose’s use of over-dye finishes and patterns, in turn, meeting with perfect harmony.
A number of fleece pieces explore this realm brilliantly, as the washed-out tones and oversized shape are evocative of the 1990s while the juxtaposition of printed panels brings in a quintessential Martine Rose touch. Likewise, hoodies are cut oversized and are plastered with boldly-colored branded graphics, while the car coat is cut to a more contemporary, formal shape that wouldn’t go amiss in Rose’s own collections.
But the archive is continually referenced as a sling bag makes an appearance alongside varsity jackets done up in virgin wool-cashmere and leather, sitting pretty alongside tonal cursive branding that reads “One in a Million;” an insider’s notion that Rose inflicts on her clothes with a sense of joy.
Boxer shorts are short, and thus a little bit fun and a very bit camp, as are Hawaiian shirts and the overall sense of “dad” dressing that we’ve come to love and expect from Rose. Here, washed denim baseball caps, white jeans with worker details, preppy silk striped ties and denim chaps all exude that gender-free freedom, while rounding things out are a pair of loafers that both you — and your grandad — will desire.
Speaking on the project, Rose said: “I really enjoyed being able to explore American subculture and create a campaign that not only celebrates, but rightly spotlights marginalized communities. Tommy Hilfiger has always been a brand that I’ve drawn inspiration from, so this partnership was such a natural and organic marriage.” Mr. Hilfiger adds, “Collaborating with Martine has been inspiring and really pushed me creatively. I love it when a designer can come in and put their own touch on our archival pieces. The collection is elevated and unique, and really highlights how out-of-the-box and experimental Martine’s work is.”
Take a look at the stellar collection from Martine Rose x Tommy Jeans in the Buck Ellison and Tamara Rothstein-shot campaign above (which explores queer relationships), and shop the range at select Tommy Jeans stores and online now.
In other news, Fiorucci is back with Napapiriji for FW22.
