Kim Jones' Dior Is a Masterclass In School-Boyish Wit and Sophisticated Coziness

Winter 2022 presents a Birkenstock collaboration, formal loungewear, informal suits, hats by Stephen Jones Millinery, and more.

Fashion
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If you looked up refinement in the dictionary, Kim JonesDior Men’s Winter 2022 show would appear next to it. Taking to Paris Fashion Week with Jones’ design director Lucy Beeden and footwear designer Thibo Denis in tow, the runway show made the fashion world stop for just over 11 minutes to appreciate a master at work.

It was a display of mastery, as the collection was accompanied by hats made the legendary Stephen Jones Millinery and footwear came courtesy of a Birkenstock collaboration, interpreting classic styles with Dior’s simplicity and frequent use of gray. As models floated onto the runway, a monologue from Christian Dior played in the background (perhaps nodding to the fact that today would have been the late designer’s birthday), and Jones’ interpretations of classic design staples became increasingly poignant.

There was a school-boyish nature to plenty of the looks, with loose-fitting blazers paired with untucked button-down shirts and oversized bejeweled gloves, or nods to misbehaving lads who wear zip-up sweaters over their untucked shirt as opposed to the school uniform blazer. These looks were accented with the aforementioned Birkenstock collaboration — some in all black with Dior buckles, others in gray felt with floral appliques — while other footwear choices included brogues decorated with lavish jewels, like those found on gloves and underneath upturned lapels and collars.

Christian Dior’s signature Lady Dior bag saw its classic repeated circle-in-a-square motif interpreted onto various looks such as a glossy black vinyl-looking leather coat and a biker jacket, while more boyish undertones appeared in the form of the exposed boxer pant waistband — a trend that’s frequented many collections this season.

As for tailoring, some looks found the work-life balance, with one double-breasted blazer paired with a shirt that’s been covered in a jeweled boddess and a pair of sneakers, while other suits were far more formal thanks to their exposed tailoring stitches, floral reveals in the collar, and shearling coats hanging from the arms.

But what struck a chord with anyone watching the show was the relevance. Dior Men’s Winter 2022 reflected the current reality of loungewear going beyond, as sweatpants met cozy Birkenstocks, overcoats mimicked dressing gowns, and an aching to go back outdoors frequented various looks with the use of petals covering a cream sweater, or the mac coat that sported a graphic arrangement of flowers. Bouquets were tucked under the arms of models while botanical prints sprawled and grew across shirts and sweaters. It was a very honest collection from Kim Jones, one which combined reality with a dreamlike world.

For more outstanding fashion, check out Rick Owens’ “STROBE” collection.

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