Thom Browne debuted his Spring/Summer 2022 collection at The Shed’s Griffin Theatre in Hudson Yards on Saturday evening, unveiling a range marked by the imprint’s classic tailoring and signature suits with a larger-than-life gesture.
The presentation opens with a voiceover about two bachelors trapped inside, looking solemnly over a weeping garden, while two models act out the storyline at center stage inside their giant wooden quarters. One horse-headed figure follows another as they round the corners of the gated garden on penny-farthers, before Browne’s womenswear and menswear iterations weave onto the runway in unison, speaking to the androgynous nature of the label.
Browne’s Spring 2022 designs are an ode to American fashion — the visionary chose to move back to New York for a single season to coincide with the opening of his partner Andrew Bolton’s exhibition, “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion,” at The Met on Monday.
Reworking the traditional uniform, gray tones dominate the collection across modular constructions in seersucker, pinstripe and houndstooth. Single-breasted jackets and sack suits meet mini skirts in lightweight kid mohair and charcoal wool, while sleeveless a-line dresses with trompe l’oeil drapery stand alone with dozens of layers of tulle. Stand-outs include elongated skirts, color-popped gowns with trailing capes, sleeveless coats and asymmetrical cropped cap sleeve tops, which the designer paired with a slew of empire waist pencil skirts.
Once Browne’s artful creations exit the runway, the presentation concludes with the aforementioned bachelors locking their gates and unzipping each other’s wool dresses to reveal a pair of rigid similary-cut assemblages, while walking in a circle around each other, never touching.
Take a look at the full collection above.
Elsewhere at New York Fashion Week, take a look at TOMBOGO’s “NATURE IS HEALING” SS22 collection.