With no Baselworld trade show being held since 2019, Patek Philippe has had no opportunity to show off the most complicated and finely decorated watches to have rolled out of its factory in the past two years.
That changes today with the brand opening a Rare Handcrafts exhibition at its grand salon or boutique in Geneva, that has been serving Patek Philippe’s customers continuously for 168 years.
While the exhibition’s headline acts are four minute repeaters that sit at the very top of the brand’s watchmaking it also includes the kind of finely decorated metiers d’art pocket and wrist watches, table clocks and Patek’s signature solar-powered dome clocks that are best known to its most serious collectors.
Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat
The star of the show, created without any concession to contemporary styling, the 44m 18k rose gold Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat is a double-dialed (the reverse displays a sky chart, sidereal time, phases and orbit of the moon) showcase for Patek’s competence in hand-engraving, enamelling and chiming watchmaking. With 12 complications including perpetual calendar and minute repeater, the manually wound Sky Moon Tourbillon is the second only to Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime, as the most complicated watch that the brand produces. The Sky Moon is presented with a matching pair of gold cufflinks.
Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
The Ref. 5304, unique within the brand’s collection for its open dial, has been set with 80 baguette-cut diamonds on its bezel, lugs and clasp. The self-winding Grand Complication model includes a minute repeater and perpetual calendar with a retrograde date indicator. The calendar display uses discs of transparent sapphire crystal, while the rose gold case is inset with a white gold leaf motif filigree.
Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
A self-winding minute repeater with perpetual calendar, the Ref. 5374-001 indicates day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication on the dial while its cathedral gong wraps itself almost twice around the movement for a richer tone when striking the hours and minutes. The model tops a solid white gold dial with a gloss-finish blue Grand Feu enamel.
Ref. 7040/250G-001 Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater for Ladies
This white gold self-winding minute repeater features a flinqué enamel dial, which tops a hand-guilloched pattern with a transparent layer of blue enamel. The already eye-catching dial is framed by a bezel set with a double row of 168 diamonds.
Patek Philippe’s often-overlooked Golden Ellipse dress watch has been treated to some genuinely Rare Handcrafts here, with this white gold model and its solid gold dial undergoing champlevé enamelling. First, hollows are engraved in the dial which are then filled with black Grand Feu enamel. The remaining gold sitting proud of the surface is then engraved with a series of arabesque and volutes motifs.
Yes, it’s a Nautilus and yes, it is factory-set with 2,553 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling 12.69cts, using the snow setting technique. The Ref. 7118 might be from the ladies Nautilus collection, but with its 35mm white gold case, there will be men queuing up for the chance to wear this.
These six new pieces are available now via Patek Philippe retailers, with price on application.
In other watch news, Jacob & Co. reveals the $580,000 USD watch celebrating the Fast and Furious film saga.