HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE has saved summer once again, presenting its Spring/Summer 2022 collection titled “Human Ensemble.” As expected, the array of pleated pieces on offer proves that the brand is as much of a mainstay as a classic white T-shirt — you just cannot go wrong, and the brand refuses to make the wrong move.
Interestingly, making a move is what underpins “Human Ensemble,” as the collection is captured in a video directed by Kazunali Tajima that’s centered around a very simple, but vital, concept. Under a swiveling light (reminiscent of the changing of the sun), a cast of 30 people each from different backgrounds wear the latest HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE garments to let the clothes’ textures shine and take prominence.
However, without the humans wearing them, the clothes can’t perform as intended. The wearer’s presence shows that the clothes have a personality and are expressive, but only when worn. This is when the clothes’ shapes, textures, colors, fits and so on, come to life.
“Human Ensemble” looks at the human body for inspiration, interpreting our form, movement, and structure to work in harmony with us on a daily basis — because if you’ve ever worn HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE, you know you never want to take it off.
Within the collection, you’ll find the “BODY ARCH” series, which is made entirely from recycled polyester yarn. Inspired by natural skin tones, the collection comprises curve-folded pants with straight pleats intersecting the design to give it a 3D look, while another fully-recycled series titled “OBLIQUE” is all about using pleats in a diagonal form. This gives the pieces a rigidity, or a welcome change to the free-flowing nature we often experience with HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE.
Taking things further is “BODY MOVEMENT,” a series of garments (jacket, long jacket, vest, and pant) that replicate the way humans move. By using a background drawn with paint and sand, the label is able to apply a curvaceous design on top to create a mesmerizing display of movement.
For the “LENO STRIPE” range, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE crafts a vertical stripe pattern made using the traditional “karamiori” technique, which as the brand explains, sees “two warp threads twisted around one weft thread, creating a net-like structure that breathes well.” Lastly, there’s another installment of “DECK’N COURT” shoes made between HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE and WAKOUWA, centered around white piping that splits up bold color blocking, and a new line of shirts that will serve as everyday smart-casual basics.
Take a look at the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE SS22 “Human Ensemble” collection above, and expect everything to land in-stores and online in the coming months.
In case you missed it, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE explained how its pleated pieces are made in its installment of What the Tech?