Busy times for Raf Simons, who finds himself both co-directing Prada and leading his eponymous label, which only just expanded into womenswear in the past year. The Belgian creative’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is another co-ed showcase, spotlighting a selection of tremendously oversized apparel with aims to upset convention by “[suggesting] different form language and new purposes,” according to the show notes issued by the brand.
Re-scaled garments encompass genderless quilted jackets, relaxed shirts and giant sweaters, all piled atop floor-scuffing slacks to suitably undercut the otherwise recognizable silhouettes. Many of the pieces are stitched with phrases that Simons took to heart when overseeing the new designs, like “Ataraxia,” “Equanimity,” “Dichotomy” and “Devotion,” which all hold special meaning to the designer amidst our topsy-turvy times. The wistful sense of peace and trust promised by this verbiage is both offset by the enormous apparel’s imposing silhouettes and mirrored by their perceived comfort and bold primary colors, offering a nostalgic motif.
Throughout, the branded patches and embroidered text is complemented by skeletal jewelry, which wraps the knitwear’s flowing sleeves and mirrors some anatomical prints that grace the hands of oversized graphic shirts. Spidery-thin sweaters match the colorful hues that grace sturdy canvas tote bags, all finished with logos similar to those seen on the clothing, while a new series of (RUNNER) Cylon shoes provide a suitable base for the billowing trousers to pool atop.
Elsewhere, Simons’ efforts at Prada appear to be working in the Italian company’s favor, according to a fairly positive recent financial report.