Last night, Kim Jones took to London to present
And clearly, thinking, adapting, imagining, is exactly what Kim Jones has been doing. For Fall 2022, Jones comes from a new perspective; a subtler, more considered, undertone and understated-driven collection not centered around artist collaborations or house branding as per usual, but instead one that puts the focus on craft.
As the show notes explain, “From counterculture to couture, this collection merges the atelier and the road, fusing the finesse of a Parisian couture Maison with the modern, casual ease of mid-American sportswear.” The result is something undoubtedly Dior, secured in its history, while references from greats such as Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Bohan in the middle-century go on to inspire Jones further, much like how Christian Dior was inspired by literature (hence the Kerouac reference), which went on to dictate much of Dior’s aesthetic: indebted to literature and storytelling. The connection becomes more apparent when you realize YSL and Bohan were inspired by the beatnik generation, and their contemporary Christian Dior was a lover of travel, also tapping into counterculture and Americana frequently.
The result is tweed checks adorning oversized blazers and soft collegiate-style coats, while Fair Isle knits appear decorated with sequins and cloqués are woven with the “CD Diamond” logo. Elsewhere, illustrations from the first-edition book jackets of Kerouac works are hand-painted and printed onto silk and leather garments, while continuing the vintage theme is a range of Americana-tinged denim pieces, often appearing in a washed-out finish.
Jones also works in Christian Dior’s love for travel, and the book, together with the use of technical additions to house staples. For example, the Saddle Bag now incorporates climbing cordons, while khaki and indigo shades now rework the Oblique pattern frequently, and book-carriers have been turned into iPhone cases. Classic derbies, rope walking sandals, and a new Dior hiking boot also appear, once again bringing the story full circle.
Take a look at the runway images from last night’s show above, and expect the collection to land in boutiques worldwide sometime next year.
In case you missed it, check out Balmain’s latest menswear offering.