In spite of everything, Marine Serre seems to have had a pretty successful lockdown. After winning the ANDAM Award in July, with a cash prize of €200,000 (approx. $224,000 USD), the Parisian designer also received a major pop-cultural boost when her signature moon-printed clothing was featured in Beyoncé’s latest visual album, Black Is King.
It’s perhaps unsurprising, then, that her Spring/Summer 2021 collection stays true to the skin-tight, streamlined and sinuous aesthetic that she has quickly become known for – after all, the patronage of the Beyhive is likely to have increased demand for her signature style. But the collection, titled Amor Fati, (and intended as “an invitation to actively embrace all of life’s pleasures,” according to a release), also offered new avenues of exploration for the brand.
That translated to a collection containing multiple strands: one on hand, a series of functional, utilitarian pieces made from biodegradable nylon, while on the other, boundary-pushing variations of the brand’s body-hugging pieces (which were inspired by the increased number of cyclists around Paris, as the designer told Vogue). Alongside that, the brand placed a new emphasis on tailoring, with single-breasted suits in a new jacquard weave, and a series of pieces made from recycled suiting fabrics. In a nod to current events, some looks were also finished with protective face shields.
Serre launched the collection with a short film, also titled Amor Fati, in collaboration with directors Sacha Barbin and Ryan Doubigo, and composer Pierre Rousseau. The film is reminiscent of 80s dystopian classics like Dune (canny timing, ahead of the film’s forthcoming remake), and features a cast of characters moving around a post-apocalyptic landscape.
For more from the Spring/Summer 2021 collections, check out the latest from London wunderkind Grace Wales Bonner.