Xiamen-based SANKUANZ often infuses streetwear codes with designer Shangguan Zhe’s far-flung inspirations, which range from South Park to Buddhist tradition. Spring/Summer 2021 channels similarly international inspiration, filtered through two distinctive codes: throwback tailoring and militaria.
Baggy tailoring takes cues from 2000s-era suits, hybridized with tall shoulders borrowed from traditional Mongol costuming, Mandarin collars and fine draping cloth indebted to historical African textiles. The refined blazers and slacks are rendered in understated suiting fabrics except when rendered in splashy graphic makeovers, complementing the all-over scribbled jeans and distressed graphic tees, the latter of which are emblazoned with retro tribal symbols, slogans (“SUN CITY,” “SAFE”) and, playfully, the ESPN Zone logo.
There’s also an emphasis on militaristic items, like camo-covered hoodies and cargo pants, that complement the ragged shirts and hefty boots that appear throughout. Also on hand is a forthcoming adidas collaboration set to launch in October 2020, realized here with a pair of chunky running shoes.
Check out SANKUANZ’s accompanying SS21 video presentation, artist Zhang Ding’s Phosphorescence, above.