Tying in neatly with the men’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway show, Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER delivers more Kurosawa-inspired goods as part of its women’s collection. Like the men’s range, 1957’s Throne of Blood inspires the designs, which literally and metaphorically draw from Kurosawa’s retelling of Macbeth.
Dubbed “MONONOKE,” which refers to vengeful spirits found in Japanese folklore, the season delivered plenty of Renaissance-indebted silhouettes informed by Lady Macbeth, accented by trademark UNDERCOVER motifs, like razor blade prints and delicate, subverted suiting. Delicate fringes and bows accent a host of lavish satin dresses and generous plaid knitwear. Collarless haori-style jackets and layered parkas find the middle ground between Kurosawa and street-savvy styling, while printed coaches jackets, ruffled tailoring and truly enormous print-laden gowns ensure the collection isn’t without pomp or circumstance.