Generic keywords often lobbed at Maison Margiela‘s conceptual runway presentations often include “deconstruction,” “avant-garde” and “experimental;” as ambiguous those terms may be, however, they aren’t inaccurate. Fall/Winter 2020 keeps in line with the stunning craft showcased at the label’s recent Artisinal presentation, complete with dynamic styling and adventurous reworked vintage garments.
Though Margiela is well-known for its Replica items — new garments and scents inspired by vintage items and nostalgia — the label’s Fall/Winter 2020 presentation introduced new “Recicla” pieces, retro clothing handpicked by creative director John Galliano and transformed into unique limited edition designs. Similar consciousness informs the luxury leathers upcycled into 5AC bags, coats sliced into vests and patchwork “poverina” dresses. Bold, easily-visible white Recicla labels designate the pieces as special creations.
A staple element since the Margiela’s founding, this high-low intent also informs the collection’s theme, juxtaposing elements of the bourgeois wardrobe with dramatic deconstruction. Raw hems, visible stitches and odd proportions upset the bon viveur of pussy-bow blouses, culottes, hybrid suiting and scalloped lace layers. Anchoring the dramatic styling is a host of the house’s signature tabi shoes and heels, bolstered by the forthcoming Reebok Pump Fury collaboration.