Coach FW20 Channels Basquiat in '80s New York Homage

A collaboration with the artist’s estate accompanies leather layers and trim tailoring.

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Soundtracked by Blondie’s Debbie Harry, Coach‘s Fall/Winter 2020 presentation was packed with items that drew from the hustle and bustle of New York in the late ’70s and ’80s. Versatile menswear and sturdy textiles inform the collection, complete with retro accessories and the occasional pop of color or bold graphic.

Informed by the downtown scene of the era, heavy overcoats and mature knitwear were often styled alongside subcultural shearling jackets, leather trousers and retro-inspired Coach sneakers. Oversized cuts emphasize the collection’s contemporary bent, underscored by various items (scarves, sweaters and bags) designed in collaboration with Basquiat estate, representing the artist’s decades-long rise from underappreciated creative to auction house favorite. The new mini-box bags and knit beanies playfully complemented the dresses printed with abstract swirls and leather trench coats, a lighthearted approach to styling underscored by contrasting parallel stripes that emerged later in the presentation.

Select runway pieces are already shoppable on Coach’s website now.

More love for the Big Apple came through during New York Fashion Week, apparent during presentations like Helmut Lang’s Fall/Winter 2020 showcase.

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