Though Spring/Summer 2020 was a relatively clean, graphic-rich affair, Yohji Yamamoto‘s Fall/Winter 2020 range revives styling comparable to the runway looks seen one year ago. Not that it’s identical, or even reason to complain; the dangling strings, ballooning militaria and lavish organic fabrics are perfectly in line with Yamamoto’s contemporary output, advancing the plot with complex layering.
Embroidery with dangling hems and oversized duffle-style closure are carried over from the past Fall/Winter range, updated with patterned wool and some contemporary accessories, like the removable leather pouches attached to the waist of various patterned pants. Double-breasted coats and raw-hemmed knitwear give the looks contrasting levels of formality, though the immense proportions all but guarantee that the garments remain firmly rooted in Yamamoto’s sense of skewed suiting, underscored by a host of blazers and shirts.
Weighed down by Dr. Martens boots and low-cut sneakers that recall Yamamoto’s past xVESSEL collaboration, much of the styling plays off of Yamamoto’s familiar cues. These include a mostly-monochrome palette — interrupted by prints, patterns and richly-textured fabrics — and the aforementioned proportions, which range from large to gargantuan. A knit sweater that reached the shins was fully zipped, complete with matching scarf, and coats splashed with red accents were nearly as long as the cuffed pants below. Even the more conventional jackets were imposingly huge, occasionally stretching down past the knuckles.