Rick Owens Brings Theatre, Glam Rock & Biker Influences to "PERFORMA" FW20 Show

Exploring the idea of performance with reconsidered silhouettes and materials.

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Rick Owens has presented his Fall/Winter 2020 collection “PERFORMA” at Paris Fashion Week Men’s, filling a theatrical hall space with dry ice as his models came down the runway.

“PERFORMA” takes its inspiration and name from the performance art biennial created by Roselee Goldberg in 2004, which encouraged Owens to reflect upon the ways he performs. As stated in the show notes, the designer noted the he “had always regarded personal behavior, social and moral, as something to quietly but diligently work on improving. But at 58, I find myself, for better or worse, performing.”

As a result, “PERFORMA” is as equally theatrical as its setting — shoulders are exaggerated on rectangular blazers both leather and felted, whereas blanket coats referencing Le Corbusier’s Modulor Man completely dominate and encompass the body. Elsewhere, Owens brings asymmetry in the form of cashmere knits in greys and blues that peel up one side of the body and down the other, revealing thin, draping T-shirts underneath.

There are elements of the biker look in “PERFORMA,” noted through its heavy use of leather and snakeskin in pieces such as a shearling-adorned cropped biker jacket and leather biker pants. Footwear comes in the form of exaggerated platforms with metal toe guards and transparent heels, as well as runners from Rick Owens’ line with Veja.

Take a look at the Rick Owens FW20 “PERFORMA” runway presentation in the gallery above, and keep an eye out for pieces to release in coming months at retailers such as SSENSE.

In case you missed it, check out the UNDERCOVER FW20 runway.

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