Kiko Kostadinov departed London for Fall/Winter 2020, showing his new range during Paris Fashion Week instead. The resulting output is surprisingly restrained for the Bulgarian designer, at least in comparison to his pattern-soaked Spring/Summer 2020 range.
A mostly-muted color palette informs the zippered shirts, slouchy pullovers and trim trousers, interrupted by a floral pattern and occasional splashes of blue or orange, making for a visually cohesive range. Contrasting insets lend themselves to occasional contrast, underscoring the semi-futuristic motif proffered by the sleeveless blazers and layered shirts. Clever pattern-making yields suiting that looks less complicated than it is, with layered lapels, anatomical seams and welt pockets built into the body of various garments.
Kostadinov’s partnership with ASICS remains in place for FW20 featuring a new running shoe silhouette, with its laces swapped for a velcro strap, a chunky toebox and grippy outsole. Additionally, the collection sees the introduction of the first ever standalone footwear collection from Kostadinov, including hefty boots, offered with either delicate broguing and patterned laces or brown snakeskin and faux moc toes.
Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, we caught up with the FW20 offerings from Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Heron Preston.