For FW20, Fletcher looked to Fiorucci’s archives back to its founding years in the 1960s. He unearthed pieces from its disco past, taking original sketches, Keith Haring-painted denim and personal belongs of the founder Elio Fiorucci, and begins his inaugural collection with reference to these findings.
Fletcher combines this with inspirations drawn from New York nightlife in the 1970s and London’s club scene, which comes together to continue the label’s signature sultry Italian flare that evokes sex, personal expression and a throwback to music scenes it dominated. As a result, Fiorucci FW20 introduces satin shirts complete with embroidered house-style branding, vinyl pants alongside other full vinyl looks, satin bomber jackets and zebra-themed knitted tank tops.
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“Denim is a key part of Fiorucci’s history and I wanted to revisit this as part of one of my first contributions to the house: experimenting with fits, washes and styles so that my first designs formed a firm core collection for men.” The first Fiorucci collection from @danielwfletcher will be revealed tomorrow.?? #Fiorucci #FiorucciMenswear #LFWM @MorganHillMurphy
Elsewhere we find a contemporary take on racing overalls that sport appliquéd graphics referencing the archives, and for a first for the brand, tailoring. Here, Fletcher brings pieces such as flared wool trousers, a mustard tuxedo jacket, checked overcoats and a deconstructed satin logo-bomb jacket, each reflecting the label’s eccentric and fun approach while introducing a new perspective for Fiorucci.
Speaking on the collection in a press release, Fletcher said, “I think it’s every designer’s dream to go into a brand with an archive this rich and be able to use it to create something new… Fiorucci is not just about fashion, it’s about music and art and there’s a spirit that is unlike any other brand that makes it so special. For me, Fiorucci is a party brand and I wanted to capture some of that magic.”
Take a look at the Fiorucci FW20 menswear collection in the gallery above, and keep an eye out for its release later this year via the Fiorucci website and its flagship Soho, London store.
In case you missed it, check out Hyein Seo’s FW19 collection.