“Retro-futurist,” “polished utility,” “a surprising wardrobe for the modern gentleman” — look no further than Fendi‘s own press notes for a succinct recap of the brand’s sophisticated Fall/Winter 2020 runway show. The ’70s-inspired collection serves as quite an in-depth foray into texture and silhouettes for house creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, but perhaps the bigger message is in her persistence in collaborating with fresh names and presenting uncanny partnerships. She’s particularly shown interest in emerging designers from Japan, this season tapping the Kunihiko Morinaga-helmed ANREALAGE for its innovative uses with fabrics.
Backed by the mantra “‘traditional’ garments are not always what they seem,’ Fendi and Morinaga created several light-sensitive pieces throughout the apparel and accessories. Select outerwear, gloves and bags will reveal new prints and colors when exposed to UV sunlight, not only offering a unique design but also representing the “first photochromic menswear on a European runway,” as highlighted by Fendi. These transformable garments work seamlessly alongside the balance of the black, brown and yellow-drenched assortment, which plays up fabrications like wool, twill and flannel against shearling, denim and suede.
Items such as leather trousers, quilted gilets and chunky knits offer a befitting vault of seasonal outfits, while luxurious faux fur coats, tailored suiting and tweed blazers speak to the house’s underlying elegance and craftsmanship. And while classic silhouettes generally took the spotlight, Fendi made a concerted effort to enhance the functionality, constructing pieces with removable sleeves and hems, reversible exteriors, and waterproof capabilities where appropriate. Pulling it all together was the striking range of accessories, a mix of the brand’s popular Baguette and Peekaboo bags alongside fuzzy bucket hats, retro sunglasses with chains and a bevy of lug-soled boots for a sturdy footwear finish.
Scroll through the gallery above to see Fendi’s full FW20 collection, and catch up on the runway show now by watching the video below.
For more from Fall/Winter 2020, see how Alexander McQueen referenced art nouveua, Henry Moore and British landscapes for its recent collection.