COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS FW20 Delivered Aggressive Layers of Rich Contrast

Rei Kawakubo’s menswear offerings included plenty of eye-searing suits and a Vibram-soled sneaker.

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Though the Spring/Summer 2020 “Orlando” collection toyed with pattern at points, it was primarily concerned with silhouette, evoking baroque fashion and opera garb. COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS Fall/Winter 2020, meanwhile, is as concerned with aggressive contrast as it is with dynamic proportions, delivering an assortment of striking patterns and and shapes.

Accented by braided wigs (and an occasional hair attachment), the garments took familiar CdG shapes: the knee-length coat, the slouchy blazer, the trim pullover, the baggy short. Distinct accents of color and pattern distinguished the looks, with stark primary tone garments layered atop each other or haphazardly sliced to sit above black mac coats and skinny tartan plaid pants. COMME des GARÇONS’ preferred black shade was often interrupted by these bold pieces; red boiled polyester blazers interrupted cropped black trench coats and inverted layers juxtaposed rich plaids against pinstripes, held together with black panels at the chest.

Though COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS often serves as testing grounds for a collaborative Nike silhouette, Fall/Winter 2020 opts for two footwear styles: zippered George Cox creepers and a pair of running sneakers offered in tonal black or white. The latter is realized atop Vibram’s popular Rolling Gait system, lending the shoes plenty of heft and comfort, with an elastic pull tab in the rear making it easy to tighten the laces.

Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, we caught up with COMME des GARÇONS alumni Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2020 range and beheld HOMME PLISSÉ Issey Miyake.

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