A-COLD-WALL* Adopts a Mature New Vision for FW20

Samuel Ross presents a grown-up image at Milan Fashion Week.

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Fashion
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A-COLD-WALL*‘s first-ever show at Milan Fashion Week showcased a new, grown-up direction for the Samuel Ross-helmed imprint for Fall/Winter 2020.

It’s FW20 presentation marked five years since the brand was started, and to celebrate this milestone, Ross welcomed a new figure for A-COLD-WALL*’s direction: “a working man at the heart of his community, whether as artisan, writer, sculptor or industrial designer.”

The collection was refined and presented A-COLD-WALL* as you’ve never seen it before. Naturally, there was a bevy of technically-indebted looks on show — something the brand harnessed in its founding years was its approach to industrialism and deconstructed fashion — however, it returned finessed, with prints becoming fabrics in pieces such as the shirt and matching trouser combo made from a rust-hued nylon that represented the natural patina of erosion.

A-COLD-WALL* continued to present adaptable outerwear complete with drawstrings that provide or retract volume, caps that have been cast in resin, workwear pants in a variety of cuts from slim to tapered, wide to boxy. However, it’s A-COLD-WALL*’s introduction of tailoring and formalwear that elevates the label for FW20 — looking to the natural formation and curvature of water for inspiration.

Curved lines and warped plackets adorned shirts, double-breasted blazers appeared in bright blue hues made from lightweight
crinkle-texture nylon, a range of pea coats, blousons, overcoats and rain macs introduced a contemporary study of menswear traditions, and standout pieces such as a leather jacket with matching pants continued to channel A-COLD-WALL*’s new direction.

Take a look at the A-COLD-WALL* FW20 runway presentation at Milan Fashion Week in the gallery above.

In case you missed it, check out Marni at Milan, too.

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