Fans of UNDERCOVER‘s graphic goods beware: the scariest thing about the Japanese label’s horror-themed Spring/Summer 2020 runway presentation may be the lack of streetwear-adjacent items. In place of the slogan tees and branded coats is an array of trim, tailored silhouettes, blacked-out so as to highlight the precise craft behind each garment.
More prints courtesy of Cindy Sherman and several renditions of vampires in motion lent visual impact to a host of sleek shirting, boxy overshirts, nipped blazers and form-fitting overcoats, though the majority of the range was executed in all-black. Lightweight wool slacks in loose and slim cuts give the muted layers above an air of formality, even when they took on lurid proportions, like the waist-length vampire work shirt.
With the understated color palette came an emphasis on details, as seen in the spider-web-pleated shirts and coats with stripes created from permanent presses or bonded leather paneling. Subtle touches came by way of trousers with knee cut-outs that only showed in motion and knitwear that juxtaposed different weaves across a single garment. Reinforcing the collection’s clean lines, cardigans sported understated neutral tone color-blocking and several images were rendered as hard-edged graphics or fading prints, underscoring each garments’ precise structure.
Behold UNDERCOVER’s runway looks above.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, check out the latest seasonal offering from Raf Simons.