Sies Marjan SS20 Explores Male Fragility Through Texture and Color

“What if male sexuality could be elevated and made delicate instead of being about pure testosterone and sleaze?”

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Fashion
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After debuting a small introductory capsule last Fall, Sies Marjan creative director Sander Lak presented his full menswear collection on Saturday as part of the Paris Fashion Week line-up. The New York-based designer built upon his initial themes from September, doubling down on gender fluidity and taking a softer approach to men’s clothing through opulent fabrics and vivid rainbow hues.

“I kept thinking of what it is like being a man today…about the important question of what masculinity is and what sex means. What if male sexuality could be elevated and made delicate instead of being about pure testosterone and sleaze,” explained Lak. The use of both smooth and crinkled satin spoke to this “delicate” nature in fabrication, supported by distinctive traces of knitwear like ribbed jumpsuits and furry zebra-printed coats. Pastels like powder blue, mint green and pale pink furthered the gentle sensibility, though primary colors of mustard yellow, red and royal blue balanced the palette with bold pops.

“Some of the colors come from the idea of skin tones like blush and chocolate and tan and nude…the color of lips,” he said.

Though mellow overall, there were still nods to toughness scattered throughout the assortment. Namely the standout matching sets, which offered a literal hard shell through croc-style leather jackets and pants. Bonding it all together with a concise neutral message was the footwear — universal options like white low-top sneakers and black velcro-strapped sandals served as seasonal options for spring and summer.

For more fashion, catch up on KENZO’s SS20 show, marking Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s final collection for the brand.

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