Daisuke Obana’s long-running N.HOOLYWOOD imprint once again takes New York Fashion Week with a collaboration-packed Spring 2020 collection, rich with Obana’s worldly influences. Inspiration from Scotland and England particularly informed the range, with consultation and archival buffalo plaid fabric provided by none other than UNDERCOVER‘s Jun Takahashi.
Vivienne Westwood‘s incomparable World’s End store in London serves as a key touchstone for the offering, dubbed “Deconstruct the Traditions,” delivering punk-inspired graphics and goods with aplomb. Takahashi’s personal experiences with punk — before he worked with COMME des GARÇONS, Takahashi played in a Sex Pistols cover band — helped bring Obana’s vision to life, realizing slouchy plaid suits and pill-patterned shirting anchored by hefty UGG slide sandals and colorful derbies.
Several elements of the offering pushed the boundaries of Obana’s comfort zone as a designer, including blazers with removable sleeves attached by snap buttons and neck gaiters sporting safety pin closure. Kilts informed by Scottish heritage were styled with paneled shirting and blazers, while militaristic jackets and jumpsuits were subverted by unusual cuts and textiles — the latter, for instance, was realized in a navy velvet. The army-indebted cargo pocket outerwear is designed with enormous proportions undercutting the seriousness of the original garment with its relaxed cut. Similarly, an otherwise edgy raw-hemmed trench coat was undermined by its canary yellow color scheme.
Check out the intimate imagery above and watch the entire presentation below.