This season’s London Fashion Week: Men’s saw some of the city’s biggest names present their Spring/Summer 2020 collections. While the most headline-grabbing shows included Martine Rose’s political critique, A-COLD-WALL*’s “MATERIAL STUDY FOR SOCIAL ARCHITECTURE” and Craig Green’s interpretation of skin and muscle, the four-day event also saw a range of emerging talents unveil new collections. Looking back at London Fashion Week: Men’s, we’ve compiled a list of five of the best shows that you may have missed.
Returning for her second season as part of Fashion East, Irish designer Robyn Lynch took guests to a “Holiday Center” for SS20. The collection takes inspiration from memories of seaside summer camps in Ireland, particularly “the camaraderie, the rites of passage, the particular style.” Key themes include awkward proportions to create a hand-me-down effect, hybrid knitwear and trackpants and color blocked looks — as with all of Lynch’s collections — in maroon, baby blue, beige and mint green.
Titled “Character,” the SS20 collection from Bianca Saunders continued to develop themes from her previous collections, namely the exploration of masculinity and male identity. The collection focused on formal dressing and tailoring — which was given an update by Saunders — as well as the fabric manipulation that the designer has become known for. Another standout feature of the collection was a range of light knitwear pieces, designed in collaboration with fellow RCA graduate Ceinor Salder. Continuing a theme that ran through previous collections, Saunders’ set was inspired by a bedroom, with photographer Deana Lawson a reference throughout.
LVMH Prize finalist Bethany Williams’ collection was titled “The Butterfly Café,” and was inspired by Spires, a South London charity that works with homeless and disadvantaged people. The SS20 collection features hand-crafted pieces including her signature knitwear styles as well as new introductions in the form of tailoring and fitted shapes. Elsewhere, prints were created in collaboration with illustrator Giorgia Chiarion. The craft pieces and the collection’s title are references to Spires’ “Butterfly Café” session for vulnerable women to socialize and join in creative activities.
For SS20, Chalayan designed a collection based around themes of dance and movement throughout different ethnic groups that have colonized by Western forces. Particular reference points included South America and Japan, offering different perspectives on colonialism. Themes throughout the collection included pieces inspired by drapes mimicking dancing bodies, light linen in colors including burnt orange, sand and navy and movement-influenced outerwear. Elsewhere, the collection also featured wool tailoring and jerseys with multicolored stripes, while Chalayan’s house “happiness code” blue and white stripe comes in a cotton weave specifically developed in Japan.
Presenting at LFWM for the second time, emerging designer Priya Ahluwalia unveiled a nostalgic, family-inspired collection. This influence was seen in a number of ways including old photographs of her family and references to the UK Garage scene of Ahluwalia’s youth, through psychedelic rave flyers and fly-posters. Elsewhere, the collection sees reimagined knitwear and tailoring repurposed from bespoke suits made in India. Throughout the collection, Ahluwalia also continued her exploration of patchwork from previous seasons.