Fumito Ganryu‘s recently refreshed eponymous label marked its return to the fashion world by fearlessly embracing gargantuan silhouettes and the designer’s penchant for surprisingly technical fabrics, trends that remain in place for Spring/Summer 2020. Drawing from nature-inspired patterns and menswear staples, the collection is an evolution of the design ethos Ganryu initiated during his tenure under COMME des GARÇONS.
Before the presentation, Ganryu told Vogue that his primary inspiration came from National Geographic‘s Instagram page, an influence made undeniably clear by the first several looks. Moody clouds, rippling water and layers of leaves are printed atop double-breasted blazers, long coats and trousers alike, with the organic imagery even playing out across accessories like handbags and wide-brimmed fedoras.
The Japanese label’s Suicoke collaborations continue for Spring/Summer 2020 with more strappy sandals, complementing the sporty parkas and thigh-length shorts. More dramatic proportions came by way of a billowing duffle coat, reportedly inspired by kimono, and massive coaches jacket, one of Ganryu’s signature pieces. The collection’s palette shifted from Breton stripe-indebted tunics and shawls to brilliantly clashing primary-hued shirts, tees and shorts. Rounding out the range was a slew of colossal menswear staples, reimagining classic blazers, slacks, trenches and overcoats in muted monochrome, allowing the enormous silhouettes to speak for themselves.
Check out Fumito Ganryu runway show above.