Consistently one of the stand-out shows at London Fashion Week: Men’s, Craig Green returned for Spring/Summer 2020 with a show that focused on themes including protection and reflection. The collection saw Green continue to take influence from ideas that have run throughout his work — with cuts that nodded to uniform and workwear — although the main reference point was the human body through skin, flesh and muscle.
Speaking backstage about the collection, Green explained that he had looked to “skin as a protection and skin as a layer that you put on top.” To this end, Green added that “the texture in the first section was leather with embedded ribs, it was a play on becoming skin,” as well as a reference to leather’s protective qualities — namely for motorcycle wearers. The protective influence was also referenced through rib-like sculptures and Egyptian ideas of protection after death. “When you pass, you’re put into a tomb to protect you,” explained Green. “Through your whole life, you’re never that protected.”
The theme of skin, flesh and muscle continued throughout. There was also a series of silk suits — described by Green as “dream suits” — complete with padded silk muscles and hand embroidery inspired by Zoroastrian anatomical studies in which “the muscles almost look like flowers,” as well as pieces featuring body scans to close the collection. The show also featured a number of cut-out paper shapes, which featured nods to both childlike innocence and Easter symbols, leading Green to draw links to resurrection and transformation.
This season also saw Green debut a new collaboration with adidas Originals, which was revealed alongside the latest installment of his work with Grenson. The two silhouettes are both reworks of the Kamanda, with one seeing the signature ridged outsole covering the entire sneaker. The other design — which premiered in a whole range of colorways — sees boldly colored plastic overlays across white uppers. The adidas Originals sneakers come a year after Green unveiled a collaborative Nike concept at Pitti Uomo 94, leading many to hope for a full release.
Take a backstage look at Craig Green’s Spring/Summer 2020 show in the gallery above. For more from London Fashion Week: Men’s, check out Martine Rose’s political new collection.