Yohji Yamamoto‘s Fall/Winter 2019 is another feather in the legendary designer’s cap, a further extension of his signature blacked-out look towards a thematic presentation. Though this offering produced more black garments than other recent collections, they were abetted by unmissable appliqué and patterns that once again repurposed Japanese Kanji and Kana into decorative patterns.
The Japanese master’s signature billowing layers were subverted by organic, almost fungal-looking stitching, executed in appropriate earth-tinged beige and green shades. Elsewhere, outerwear sported stripes, spider embroidery and panels of differing lengths, dynamically undercutting the seriousness of the all-black layers. Later in the show, the loose threads gave way to rows and rows of shiny embossed metal buttons that recalled vintage European military clothing — the motif was driven home by toggle coats, berets and chains that dangled from badge-sized closures.
Check out the looks above and watch Yamamoto’s full show below.
Elsewhere in Paris, Yohji Yamamoto’s former pattern-cutter debuted Sulvam’s Fall/Winter 2019 runway.