sulvam FW19 Continues Pushing the Boundaries of Patternmaking

The next generation of Japanese mastercraft.

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Fashion
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In line with sulvam‘s avant-garde Spring/Summer 2019 presentation, the Japanese label continues progressing its off-kilter aesthetic with Fall/Winter 2019. Designer Teppei Fujita cut his teeth as a pattern-maker for Yohji Yamamoto, and that dedication to handiwork is evident in the well-managed mayhem that Fujita sent down the runway.

“There’s no design, all the pattern is free-hand,” sulvam’s Fujita reported in a press release. “Drawings started at the moment when a silhouette appeared in my head. The leopard pattern emblematic of this season is made from scratch, it is coloured with the image of a flower bouquet. The bouquet to the chaotic fashion industry.”

Fujita’s bespoke leopard/floral fusion is emblazoned across long-sleeved shirts, dresses and coats, realizing a jarring contrast to the muted black wool gabardine that appears less sporadically here than in his past collections. “Too classical ; Break it by cutting,” Fujita intones, referring to the sliced-and-diced zip jackets, trousers, cardigans, and outerwear, executed in everything from rustic black leather to lurid pink wool bouclé, breathing life into garments inspired by 1930’s formalwear.

Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Vetements tackled heady censorship issues.

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