In line with sulvam‘s avant-garde Spring/Summer 2019 presentation, the Japanese label continues progressing its off-kilter aesthetic with Fall/Winter 2019. Designer Teppei Fujita cut his teeth as a pattern-maker for Yohji Yamamoto, and that dedication to handiwork is evident in the well-managed mayhem that Fujita sent down the runway.
“There’s no design, all the pattern is free-hand,” sulvam’s Fujita reported in a press release. “Drawings started at the moment when a silhouette appeared in my head. The leopard pattern emblematic of this season is made from scratch, it is coloured with the image of a flower bouquet. The bouquet to the chaotic fashion industry.”
Fujita’s bespoke leopard/floral fusion is emblazoned across long-sleeved shirts, dresses and coats, realizing a jarring contrast to the muted black wool gabardine that appears less sporadically here than in his past collections. “Too classical ; Break it by cutting,” Fujita intones, referring to the sliced-and-diced zip jackets, trousers, cardigans, and outerwear, executed in everything from rustic black leather to lurid pink wool bouclé, breathing life into garments inspired by 1930’s formalwear.