Hiroki Nakamura's Favorite Items From visvim Fall/Winter 2018
A closer look at some of the season’s best new garments and shoes.
After showcasing visvim‘s loose and layered Fall/Winter 2018 collection, we now bring you a closer look at some of the range’s key items. The selection encompasses everything from bold statement pieces to some of designer Hiroki Nakamura‘s personal favorites, all of which exemplify the brand’s premium-qualiy mindset.
Visitors were welcomed into visvim’s Fall/Winter 2018 showroom by an enormous pair of FBT sneakers, serving as both a tongue-in-cheek nod to one of the label’s most iconic silhouettes and as a larger-than-life example of visvim’s jaw-droppingly high level of craftmanship. Inside, the Fall/Winter 2018 collection boasted mud-dyed jackets, T-shirts with hand-drawn graphics and thick wool knits alongside some recognizable footwear silhouettes, like the beefy Grizzly boots. This season saw other favorites return in a variety of new makes, including a pair of Skagway sneakers produced from the same pebbled leather as basketball shoes and visvim’s backpacks, now made with Cordura cotton instead of ballistic textile. Read on for more of the season’s best goods.
Nui-Jime Tunic P.O.
One of three different colorways, this pullover tunic shirt was one of Nakamura’s personal favorites of the season. It features a Nui-Jime dye technique — a labor-intensive process that requires artisans to dye the pieces of the garment separately before assembling it. Multiple layers of organic dye are applied, creating the distinctive intersecting pattern. A hand-stitched detail in the neck further distinguishes the item, with real silver concho buttons ennobling it further into the realm of luxury.
Yukata Coat “Katazuri Blanket”
Perhaps the most visually stunning piece in the showroom, this hefty Yukata gown coat is crafted from Italian wool and accented with plush velvet at the collar. Its eye-grabbing Katazuri pattern is created through a taxing, hand-applied silkscreening process, allowing the colors to fade naturally with continued wear. Continuing the Eastern-inspired styling, its weighty, jacquard-knit belt in matching wool fits through the rear belt loops for effortless closure.
SS 101 JKT Jumbo DMGD
Another one of Nakamura’s preferred items, the latest iteration of the visvim 101 denim jacket is the result of the label’s innovative “DRY DENIM” textile processing. Inspired by vintage jeans, the complex process removes the oil from indigo-dyed goods, creating pre-shrunken pieces that recall vintage denim jackets and jeans baked by the hot California sun. The elevated vintage motif is emphasized by a host of paint splatters and subtle detailing — like the small, red “ICT” embroidery at the chest, a nod to visvim’s Indigo Camping Trailer.
FBT Prime Runners
The latest take on the brand’s iconic FBT sneaker, the FBT Prime Runners offer the shoe’s recognizable leather skirt around the ankle and chunky Vibram sole, but new detailing helps reinvent the shoe. Instead of the usual Native American-inspired upper, the Prime Runner features a blend of mesh and hair suede, recalling chunky ’90s running shoes. It retains the moccasin-like toe of its predecessor, with hand-stitched detailing ensuring the shoe doesn’t stray far from visvim’s heritage-minded roots.
Douglas Reversible Embroidered Bomber Jacket
Executed in silver or orange satin, the reversible Douglas bomber blends the flight jacket’s visual weight with sukajan styling. This is no army repro item however — the Douglas features luxe RiRi zippers, an assortment of embroidered details and even braided seams. Rich dragon imagery features on the rear of the satin side, complemented by the “PEERLESS” slogan seen throughout recent visvim collections. On the inside, suede offers embroidery of the Japanese cities that host visvim outlets, recalling the tour poster for the label’s “Traveling Trading Post.”
Hudson Jacket IT “Urushi/Veg Shearling”
Weighing in as the heaviest item in the entire collection, this hulking iteration of the visvim’s Hudson Jacket could withstand the worst of the Arctic, if necessary. Lined with rich, vegetable-tanned shearling, the jacket features a fur-lined hood and striking details like horn buttons and leather-trimmed seams. The outside of the jacket features urushi-gawa lacquer, a textile covered in a recent visvim Dissertation. Applying urushi-gawa is already a strenuous task but coating this monster of a jacket requires a heroic effort, the epitome of visvim’s sumptuous craft.
For more visvism, check out our recent conversation with Hiroki Nakamura at his NYC pop-up to discuss his love of clothing, American style and Kanye West.