Shayne Oliver Talks Collaboration and Community With Hans-Ulrich Obrist

“I had been screaming that I wanted to work with Helmut Lang for so long, and everyone was turning a deaf ear on me.”

By
Fashion
2,443 Hypes 0 Comments

Shayne Oliver‘s triumphant collaboration with Helmut Lang saw the New York-based designer return from a self-imposed exile since Hood By Air announced a temporary hiatus. Oliver discusses his work with Lang, which was one of New York Fashion Week’s biggest highlights, in a new interview with Hans-Ulrich Obrist, the culture writer and artistic director of London’s Serpentine Galleries.

In addition to detailing his work on the collection itself, the conversation between the two chronicles their separate experiences of working with Lang, the nature of collaboration and how Oliver’s Hood By Air label is a “community-based idea.”

You can read some key excerpts from the conversation between Oliver and Obrist below, and check out our own interview with the designer about how he is trying to save New York Fashion Week.

On the Helmut Lang collaboration:

Hans-Ulrich Obrist: Can you tell me more about this collaboration, Helmut Lang seen by Shayne Oliver? I remember when I spoke to him, it must have been the mid-‘90s, he told me about the energy he got from history and the past. In this case, Helmut Lang is the past and you’re building upon that. But you’ve got also your own past and energy, so I was wondering how these connect and how you’re approaching this project.

Shayne Oliver: It was very weird, because I had been screaming that I wanted to work with Helmut Lang for so long, and everyone was turning a deaf ear on me. Then all of sudden, when I left it alone and gave up on it, I got a call from Isabella [Burley] who had just been appointed new Editor-in-Residence here.

To be honest, it was very hard at first, because obviously there is such a vast body of work that needs to be taken into consideration. I started by taking out my favorite pieces and seeing if they were even available physically in the archive, which a lot of them weren’t. So I began to incorporate designs from HBA that never made it into the commercial world. And by merging these things that may have been, these neglected or underappreciated things, I started to create the collection.

On Hood By Air:

Hans-Ulrich Obrist: There is also the question of the evolution of your factory. I think it’s interesting how often, when an enterprise becomes successful, it brings people in as well as out, moving on to their next personal adventure. I mean, Alejandro Ghersi was your intern; I suppose there are a lot of exciting interns there now. How does it work?

Shayne Oliver: Hood by Air is a community-based idea, and Shayne Oliver is just the founder of that. Right now, it’s moving more into a place where, as opposed to having interns, I want to be more of a mentor. And I don’t know if that means we’re even going to have a physical space, you know? I feel like it’s a waste of time. I think that people get comfortable in a space, and they almost become victims of the space, when really, the people are the fortress, the people are the institution. And I think it’s great, because now we get to pick and choose—the kids and talents come to us and we’re able to nurture them. First I need to find a home, though, because I’ve been traveling so much and I haven’t been able to get a place! Once I do that, I can sort of balance the personal part of myself and the mentor part.

This interview is taken from the upcoming Fall/Winter edition of KALEIDOSCOPE, and you can read the full conversation on the magazine’s web site.

In other KALEIDOSCOPE news, the publication has recently partnered with Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP on a new exhibition space in Milan.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Check out Supreme's New Brooklyn Store
Fashion

Check out Supreme's New Brooklyn Store

Opening this week.

Yayoi Kusama's Life Is Captured in New Children's Book
Arts

Yayoi Kusama's Life Is Captured in New Children's Book

More than just a picturebook.

The North Face Appoints Tim Hamilton as New Global Creative Director
Fashion

The North Face Appoints Tim Hamilton as New Global Creative Director

“We see a lot of potential in fusing our brand’s heritage with Tim’s fresh perspective.”


The Film 'Her' on Building a Brighter, Less Dystopian Future
Entertainment

The Film 'Her' on Building a Brighter, Less Dystopian Future

Things are looking up.

LaVar Ball Has Decided to Homeschool LaMelo to Better Steer His Basketball Career
Sports

LaVar Ball Has Decided to Homeschool LaMelo to Better Steer His Basketball Career

With some choice words in the process.

YBN Nahmir Follows Up "Rubbin Off The Paint" With "I Got A Stick"
Music

YBN Nahmir Follows Up "Rubbin Off The Paint" With "I Got A Stick"

The Alabama rapper is next up.

More ▾
 
Subscribe to our Newsletter

Gain access to exclusive interviews with industry creatives, think pieces, trend forecasts, guides and more.

By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Help us serve you better

We appreciate your support in allowing HYPEBEAST ads, where we can share contents from the latest fashion, to those culturally relevant. By adding HYPEBEAST to your ad blocker's whitelist, ads on our sites will show while you continue to browse.