Although the final day of London Fashion Week Men’s boasted a strong schedule of British big-hitters — including the anticipated comeback of Dame Vivienne Westwood — it was some of the lesser heralded overseas designers that brought some of the biggest reactions.
John Lawrence Sullivan‘s high-octane midday show saw a German-inspired collection sent down the runway to the sound of Depeche Mode’s “Personal Jesus.” Japanese designer Arashi Yanagawa marked his own return to European runways with his sharp tailoring, striking palettes and eye-catching slogans — Massiv!, Provocativ! — that adorned sweaters, knits and accessories, while zipper embellishments and high-shine fabrics added directional appeal.
Across the road at Somerset House, Qasimi’s presentation brought a touch of the Middle East to the city, with Emirati creative Khalid bin Sultan Al Qasimi’s 2017 fall/winter collection featuring a rich palette of ochre, olive and mauve, which played out across a range of military-inspired pieces, tactile gowns and oversized scarves as the voice of John Lennon provided a lilting musical backdrop.
Meanwhile, Michiko Koshino’s more conceptual pieces mixed clubland with streetwear, with inflatable PVC elements — a signature for a designer whose work has been championed by the likes of David Bowie and Stella McCartney — appearing alongside black, white and tobacco hooded tops while architectural outerwear paid homage to this season’s inspiration of ancient Japanese warriors. Set in a dimly lit basement within the Institute of Contemporary Arts, the avant-garde presentation came accompanied by a glitchy static-heavy soundtrack and did plenty to reinforce London Fashion Week Men’s reputation as a platform for boundary-breaking fashion.
Click here for all our London Fashion Week Men’s coverage.